Mike's Triumph Troubles

All those little jobs that I had left until now

2012-02-12T18:06:00.003Z

At time during the build of the estate I was aware that a few items needed revisiting, but some of the work had been done in a great rush to get it ready for various shows or the exhaust fabricators. So having put off the evil moment for so long I decided to revisit those items that were essential to getting it running but I had put off rectifying as the jobs were potentially quite time consuming and fiddly.

First off were the water temp sender housings that fit at the rear of the heads - easily fitted with the heads off, but a real PITA with the heads on as there is so little clearance to the bulkhead, and each has 5 bolts to tighten. I hadn't done these before because the originals were grotty, full of old rust and I had forgotten to take them to the blasters.

Anyway here they are fitted, with hoses and sensors attached. the cable with the springy wire wrapping visible is a capiliary temp gauge with oil pressure gauge - I know its another worry gauge, but I do like to see the oil pressure, especially in a new engine, and I need to know if the oil will get too hot because of the FF parts - I have yet to mount the gauge inside, that can wait until the parcel shelves go in.

I also fitted the accelerator cable at the same time.

Next, I wanted to replace the autobox sump gasket - the new one had squeezed out quite a lot when fitted for some reason and I wasn't happy with it, so after jacking the car up I could do this and fit the autobox to engine strengtheners.

At the same time I could connect the loom to the autobox inhibitor switch, although I had to undo the front propshaft to get at this - the actual switch is somewhere half visible in the depths of this picture.

That done a quick test of the wiring proved that I had reversing lamps and starter motor. I was unaware until testing that these will also start in neutral as well as park.

The gearbox mount was also not correctly fitted as a spacer fabricated by FF had been fitted on the wrong side by me, that corrected the mount is nice and level, although I now need to get some longer bolts for the mount with the spacer, as the nylocs now do not have thread protruding through the nut. Fix one thing and something else needs attention!

I have also found that I need a custom speedo drive cable - the standard one that I have used is 20" too short due to the FF box, so that's another item to source

I am going to leave the car on axle stands for now, as next I am going to strip the front hubs and cure the endfloat issues that they have always had. It should be much easier with them on the car. That done I can fit brake pads and bleed the brakes.

That little lot was 10 hours work, so the grand total is now 875 hours

I don't mind the cold, its the snow that gets me

2012-02-04T17:20:00.000Z

I know you all want me to get on with the engine, so do I BUT I must finish other jobs first, or they will never get done, it'll be driven unfinished.

First things first, get Ted Taylor's new laminated windscreen fitted, so I don't damage the thing while its sat on the floor.

So new screen rubber fitted to screen, and windscreen trim fitted to that - its easier while its off the car. I can normally get a screen in first attempt, not today, 3 goes and three hours before I was happy with the result. To be fair, I think its the cold, the screen rubber wasn't exactly soft and pliable, and I am normally happy to give windscreens a good bash or two to seat them, but not on a laminate screen - they have a very nasty habit of cracking, so here it is fitted and with windscreen wipers on too

Next, electric cooling fan, I purchased this, its a two speed unit for Stags and looks the business, complete with relays and electronic temp control, it will push or pull. But will it fit ? NO, it would go in if I didn't have an autobox oil cooler, but with that in the way no chance - I need a slimmer standard unit, so no more work on the engine today.

I had a go doing more of the internal trim, but the contact adhesive has turned to rubber in the cold, so I couldn't do that either, and it was getting a bit cold in the garage with snow blowing inside, so I turned my attention to the rear seats.

Good clean, fit the backing boards and chrome trim, and got them finished. Not quite what I had intended to do today.

Tomorrow, if the weather isn't too bad, its time to fit the autobox strengtheners, check and attach the wiring to the start inhibit switch on the box (which will be a pig), and fill the autobox and transmission with ATF

Interesting the size of the pending jobs list, its now down to this:-

FF jobs list

3). Bleed brakes

4). Fill gearbox and transfer box with ATF

5). Fit gearbox to engine stiffeners

6). Adjust handbrake

9). Fit remainder of exterior brightwork (rear window surrounds)

11). Fit dash parcel shelves

13). Fit seat belts

14). Fit side carpet panels to front cockpit

15). Fit ABS electronics module

16) Fit front and rear bumpers – part done

18) Fit carpets

20), Fit remaining interior trim, side panels and wood torear of estate

21) Fit seats

Part done -22). Complete heads after machining as follows,fit Valves and springs, cam buckets and camshafts, gap tappets with shims

25). Fit inlet manifold and carbs, with fuel pipes,breathers and accelerator cable

26). Fit Dizzy, plug leads and coil

Part done -27) Fit radiator and cooling fan and remaininghoses

29) Make up PAS to pump pipes (won’t take standard Stagones!)

30). Insert petrol and see if it starts

31). Test gearbox and check kick down

32). Fix run out on front disks – suspect its a hub /bearing issue

33) Fit trim strip to rear window seal

34) Fit window winders and internal door handles

35) Fit ashtrays!

39). Rust proof box sections with Dinotrol

41). Complete bonnet lead loading and paint somehow and fit

42). MOT

Part done - 43). Get old registration back – part done

44). Cure slow airleak in 2 tyres

45). Run and test!

I MUST get the manifold back next week from the machine shop

hours worked now 865 - 8 today

Tubular Bends

2012-02-03T14:30:00.000Z

Took the car trailer up to JP Exhausts in Macclesfield today and collected the estate. I haven't even unloaded it yet I am so pleased with the exhaust and manifolds that they have fabricated, and couldn't wait to share the pictures with you all.

Despite the difficulties and extra work it's still come in at the quoted price - what gentlemen and skilled too, after my paintshop problems its a joy to discover such good honest workmanship. I am chuffed to bits and cannot wait to get on with it and get it fired up for the first time in 20 or so years - need to get the inlet manifold back first though, but plenty to work on now. Come and see it at Stoneleigh it should be running by then. Sorry Colin / Amanda should I have said that ?

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves

There we are, automotive porn!

How much ? £1800 plus vat, which brings the expenditure to £20342

Exhausted

2012-01-17T15:34:00.000Z

There's a space in my garage, I towed the estate to Macclesfield today, to JP Exhausts. The car was put on their ramps, and they scratched their heads a little, but there is now a plan as to how to fabricate the exhaust.

Because of the estate "boom" issues I asked for 2 or 3 silencers, I think quiet is better rather than cherry bomb noise in such a refined vehicle, so the plan is as follows.

The driver's side manifold will follow the normal Stag route of exiting down by the oil filter, but the other bank will exit at the front, be taken round the front of the engine, between the antiroll bar and the steering rack subframe and then backwards to join the driverside exhaust Y fashion at the back of the gearbox in a single pipe. The first silencer will then sit in the large recess under the driver's seat. The pipe then follows the transmission tunnel with a small inline silencer and hoop over the driveshaft through the sub frame arm as normal. A further silencer will then be fitted under the boot floor (as I still have the spare wheel housing lump projecting down under the boot floor), exiting in twin pipes Stag fashion. Not easy to describe, but I will get pictures when I collect the car in 2 to 3 weeks time.

They had some nice machinery in there too - a Metro 6R4 complete with a custom manifold with 32" primaries that they had just finished.

So while the estate's away I shall finish the rear seats and check what parts I am missing to finish the machine - might make Stoneleigh yet!

4 hours work today.

Radiator and Interior

2012-01-15T17:13:00.000Z

First job this frosty cold morning (and no there will be no pictures of my thermal overalls) was to fit the radiator, and the first snag became apparent, there's no way it will fit with the conventional engine fan and viscous coupling. I guess my new radiator is thicker than the original, so it was off with the viscous coupling, radiator in, and an electric fan on the pending purchases list - at least it won't hold up the exhaust fitters.

Then it was time to complete the headlining so I could replace the screen. I still cannot get all the wrinkles out, but its not too bad, and its clean, so I spent the rest of the day after fitting the screen, fitting the B post covers, the grab handles, coat hook, sunvisors, interior lamp and rear view mirror. i can assure you its a lot quicker to say that than to do the jobs - the worst issue was locating the mounting holes through the new headlining, in the end I cut pieces from the old lining where the parts were fitted and used the holes in the old lining to identify where the new holes in the new lining should be, so at the end of the day the interior looks like this

Finally I fitted the D post covers that I had recovered the other day

Another 7 hours worked so the total is 857

And with that work done I have now completed 15 of the 45 jobs on my remaining jobs list.

While the estate is away having the exhausts made I am going to finish the seats, the inlet manifold should be back with the threads recut where the water bypass pipe connects, so on its return I will re-shim the cams, fit the maniold, carbs and distributor and have a go at bringing the engine back to life

Its all a rush now

2012-01-14T17:41:00.001Z

When I made an appointment to have the exhausts and manifolds made up for the car in late November I thought I had plenty of time to complete the jobs required before delivering the car to Macclesfield next week. Just shows how wrong you can be and how some jobs take forever........

So I started Friday morning with the heads apart and waiting for tappet shims,

after a few unsuccessful attempts to get shims I built the heads up, and removed the gaffer tape and polythene that had been protecting the engine. So right hand head on first and timing gear. Note the genuine Payen head gaskets, and (in the left hand side bank facing you) the use of head studs in the lower bolt holes to hold the gasket in place and guide the head on - after the heads in place fit the bolts and remove the studs to their correct location.

Other head in place - I had trouble with the rear most stud fouling the brake servo, in the end I had to put the stud into the head and then fit the head and tighten the stud up

All timed up, each cam has been set 2 degrees advanced to allow for chain stretch, although I don't expect the IWIS (Mercedes chains from LD Parts) to stretch much. Neither head is torqued down at present.

That was Fridays work - 6 hours worth.

Saturday morning, freezing outside so a chance to use my thermal overalls.

Firstly using silicon sealant I glued the cam cover gaskets to the cam covers - makes removal and replacement easy

These were then fitted - starting to look like a complete engine now

So time to fit the timing chain cover, this is why the heads have not been torqued down yet, ideally it lets you lift the heads a little to fit the cover between the sump and the head, I usually lift the heads 2mm or so with some small folded pieces of metal between the block and the gasket near the timing chains

If you look carefully you can see that I have used cap head screws in the 2 front bolts in the head to the timing cover - Triumph originally used bolts with smaller heads than normal to fit, and you cannot get these anymore - the cap heads come from LD Parts again.

Now you can torque down the left hand head only - you do the righthand one AFTER fitting the inlet manifold - mine is absent having a corroded fitting machined out, but it doesn't need the inlet manifold to have the exhausts done.

Next job was to get the power steering pump and alternator on

Followed by the front pulley and the 2 drive belts

I am having some difficulties with the pipes from the power steering pump to the rack - they don't fit at all - this is due to the servo block on the rack being rotated out of its normal position - some thoughts are needed about this.

Tomorrow its radiators and pipe work, and headlining and refit the front screen so the car will then be ready for the manifolds. Its been important to get all the engine ancillaries on, so the exhaust people know what they have to work round

9 hours work today, so the total is now 850 hours

Heads and Headlinings

2012-01-12T20:29:00.001Z

Bit of a bits and pieces day really. Started with the heads setting tappet clearances with shims, typically by the time I had juggled the existing shims about and my spare shims, I had managed to gap half the tappets accurately, but the other half are way off and I cannot locate anyone with the correct shims in stock. All is not lost because I know a man in Coventry who can grind the shims for me, but not until next week.

The car is going off for its manifolds and exhaust on Tuesday, so I guess the heads will have to go on, and be re-shimmed later

Next job was back on the headlining, I managed to get more wrinkles out (but it still needs a little more work) so I decided to fit the rear tailgate hinge cover that I had repainted. The manual shows this held in place with nuts and bolts, but how they hold the nuts in place is beyond me, so out with the rivnet gun

a few minutes later and 9 rivnuts fitted in place

Metric M5s I am afraid, but it makes fitment and removal of this so easy

I WILL get the remaining wrinkles out, I think its where the material is catching on the hoop bars that hold the lining in place, but its one of those jobs to be done bit by bit.

While doing the lining I was reminded of the state of the C and D post trim covers, which look like this

These were stripped, and repaired

and then recovered to look like this

The C post covers are just cloth strips, so I have saved some material to be applied later

Hours worked now 835 - 8 hours today

Got a head or two

2012-01-09T18:52:00.002Z

Went to Roy Burrell's today and collected the heads.

Roy has ported them and gently reshaped the combustion chambers to make them breath better, together with some subtle valve reshaping.

Its hard to do them justice in the pictures but here they are, much smoother ports, better radii, and less projections into the flow, got to be worth a few HP

I should have them re-assembled tonight, ready to do the tappet shims tomorrow, got to keep moving as the car is due to have the manifolds made in a week or so

Not the job that I had hoped to finish today

2012-01-08T16:34:00.000Z

I had hoped to finish the headlining today, but after I removed the front screen I realised that I didn't have the spire nuts to hold the sun visors in position, so that's the headlining on hold for a day or two. Although I shall be refitting one of Ted Taylor's new laminate screens when it goes back in

Still work must progress so I attended to a few of the small outstanding jobs. Firstly I cut down and reshaped the new battery bar retention hook, so that's now complete.

I got the horns fitted and tested. There is normally one each side of the radiator, but because the battery box is fitted on the driver's side, both horns have to fit here

And finally I went through my boxes of parts in the cellar to locate the new sunvisors

The rear view mirror, grab handles, both left and righthand, the rear estate interior lamp, and bits and pieces for the window winders

All ready for fitment when I finish the headlining, I collect the heads tomorrow, so i shall be assembling them in the next few days, much as Richard is illustrating on the CT Forum.

These little jobs don't add up to much, but all take ages, and they are more and more items removed from my jobs list, the end is almost in sight now.

Hours worked now 827 - 5 today

How to get it up and stay up !

2012-01-07T17:09:00.000Z

The tailgate .. what else?

And you all thought today's blog would be about cylinder heads, well its not, and they won't be mentioned again for a few days.

However it was time to deal with the tailgate, so after removing this, I then unbolted the hinges and torsion bars.

I had realised that if I could reuse my hinges, with new bars, then the tailgate fit would remain good, and perhaps it would stay up without a broom supporting it!

How to get the torsion bar out was surprisingly easy, first hold the bar in a vice, and then rotate the hinge assembly with a pair of stilsons, until the one captive end (L shaped) of the bar came out of the hinge bracket

Not too difficult as there wasn't too much tension in the cut and shut re-welded bars. Reassembly with the new bars was a different issue,needing a good bit of pressure to align everything.

However the bar was still held in place by this "clamp"

Some oxy-acetylene heat soon softened the metal and let me open this up, and the bar came out. You can see how little tension it would give, if you compare it with an un-cut original bar (note the weld in the white bar done by the paint shop

Reversing this entire process had the 2 replacement bars fitted to the hinge assembly, however with the hinges properly tensioned they wouldn't go back in the car. I had to open up the hinge angle, and leave it fixed in the nearly open position, which was achieved with a long bar on the hinge arm to apply enough leverage, and a cut down bolt wedged in the mechanism

repeated with the other hinge, I was then able to refit the tailgate, and then remove the cut down bolts.

Does it work ?

yes, a perfectly balanced tailgate, that will stay in which ever position you open it to.

What joy ! another nasty job complete, and only minimal marks to the paint on the hinges, most of which will be covered by various trim items in due course.

So what next, has to be the headlining. First I needed to glue back in the sound deadening pads fitted by Triumph. I don't know what glue they used, but modern glues don't seem to stick very quickly, so I had to hold the pads in place for 10 minutes or so as I applied glue to each area. Pig of a job, glue everywhere, in my hair, on my clothes, and some where it was needed. Eventually all was in place

No excuse now but to fit the lining

I know its full of ripples, but I am going to leave it overnight, remove the front screen, tension it all, which is done via these strips of cloth at the tailgate end, and by pulling down the sides, and gluing and clamping

and hopefully have a good tidy headlining, but that's for tomorrow as I want a beer now!

Hours worked now 822 - 7 today

Under the Roof

2012-01-03T16:27:00.000Z

I need to attend to the tailgate tortion bars, but its a job that I have been putting off, however I cannot delay much further as I have now picked up the new headlining from Aldridge Trimming. Its a really great job done by them, in the original material too, here's the old grubby one, complete with rips and various stains.

And here's the new one, a little wrinkly until its fitted, but beautiful and unmarked white

This meant that I had to attend to the tailgate hinge cover, as the old one looks worse than the headlining

This has had a good clean and 15 coats of vinyl cote to bring it up looking like this

So I have to now tackle the hinges, or maybe not, because I have just had a telephone call from Roy Burrel to tell me that the heads are done and ready for collection. No competition is it really, lets see, faf about with the hinges, or get the heads, fit the cams and valves etc and fit the heads inlet manifold and shiny reconditioned carbs, I ask what would you do?

Sadly the tailgate will have to wait for another day.

Money spent now £17732 - £127 for the headlining

Headlamps and battery

2011-12-17T17:07:00.001Z

I am just back from a weeks hard work in Edinburgh, so feeling a little tired today, but I must make progress.

Fitted an 072 type battery today, in the battery compartment, I couldn't secure the battery clamp though as the modified Stag battery box required a shorter fastening rod on the inner wing side, and as I was re cutting the thread for the wing nut, the blessed thing sheared off, just above the hook. The next one will have the thread left alone, and after shortening, will have the end hook reformed with the aid of a lot of heat from my acetylene torch. Good job that I hadn't secured the vacuum pipe, as I had to move this out of the way to slide the battery into place

Next, headlamps, I had purchase a set of Cibies from Chris Witor, these look like the originals, but use modern lamps and give a superb beam pattern that is bright and more in keeping with modern cars.

To save the contacts in the column mounted headlamp switch failing, and to ensure maximum voltage at the lamps, I made up a stainless steel bracket to hold 2 relays

then added various cables

using this basic wiring diagram, which I hope is of use to others.

This was fitted on the nearside radiator support bracket behind the headlamps, well out of the way of water and road debris. The end result is this, low beam

and high beam

That was it apart from a visit from David Wilson (Spitfire 1500 on the CT forum) who came along for a chat and to collect the overdrive gearbox that I had collected from Edinburgh for him.

Ted Taylor has also kindly donated the missing heater vent pipes that I need too.

Hours worked now 818 (5 today)

Money spent now £17615 (£310 on Cibies, battery and bulbs)

Heads and other bits and pieces

2011-12-10T17:58:00.001Z

First job was to collect the NOS heads today and get them to Roy Burrell for attention, they came with new cams, followers and valves so some money saved on new buckets !

Sorry about the picture quality from my iphone.

The other jobs, cleaned and fitted the rear aluminium boot lip fitting, its not pristine, but I didn't want to polish it and loose the anodised finish. The broom is needed to prop the tailgate open!

Then on to the brake servo fittings, I replaced the vacuum pipes to the reservoir and generally finished off around the ABS valve. I haven't clipped the pipe in place yet, as I suspect fitment will need adjustment when the radiator and air intake are fitted. As I couldn't get the pipework re-plated , I cleaned it off, rust proofed it and then used some cadmium look alike paint for an authentic finish

Back to the wiring, I fixed the handbrake indicator fault, the wire was broken at the connector on the handbrake - nice and easy that one.

I then fitted the internal divider to the front nearside indicator and side lamp, hence rendering that MOT suitable.

The wiring to the rear tailgate was completed, and I now have a functioning number plate lamp and a rear screen heater. It was a right pig to get the wires down the rear D post.

The rest of the day was spent threading the interior light wires down the A and B posts to the door switches, so now the interior lamp comes on when the doors open. The disconnected wire powers the fuel pump - I don't want it "sucking on air".

Next job will be the head lamp relays, I am fitting some cibie's because of the night driving on the RBRR, its a shame not to fit the original Lucas units, but they are dimmer than a Toc H lamp!

Hours worked today 6, so the total is now 813, money spent on heads £1875 so a grand total of £17305

Electrickery and other bits

2011-12-05T19:16:00.001Z

As I attend to the major remaining jobs, I am also trying to catch up on the little bits and pieces that also need completion, so I don't have a pile of small jobs left at the end to complete.

So first item attended to today were the hoses from the brake reservoirs to the master cylinder

Still needs a clip or cable tie to tidy up the lower hose, but its another item done.

Then onto the electrics.

First job was to connect a car battery to the main battery cables, but I did this with a 20amp fuse in line, its enough to power most electrical items, but will prevent a smoking loom in case of a major fault.

Started with the side lamps, first fault was an old bulb that had the solder connection on the rear compressed so much with time and age it was a poor contact. Then found that the nearside sidelamp / indicator was missing the lense divider internally (another item to source) so the sidelamp also illuminates the indicator and vice versa.

One of the NOS rearlamp holders had a mispressed bulb holder, so the offset pin stop and tail bulb won't fit, simply cured for now by filing one of the pins off the bulb.

On and on the job went, most faults caused by miss connecting green / brown to green purple circuits ! - hard to tell the 2 colours from each other, but by the close of the day most items were tested and working, but I still have to complete the side repeater indicators and the internal roof lights, with the starter connections yet to be tested, and a fault on the handbrake warning circuit. I also need to fit headlamp relays, and bolt the horns on.

Interestingly the car has the Stag type combined oil pressure warning lamp / brake PWDA fail indicator (all of which work).

Instruments were tested by grounding the wires at the sender position, and watching the needles move.

It was nice to see the instrument needles move after all this time, and wiper motors work etc etc, a good feeling of satisfaction as the car slowly comes to life after all these years

Believe it or not that was a whole day gone, 8 hours work so the total is now up to 807 hours

I am sure my estate is female !

2011-12-02T18:09:00.001Z

Normally anything that you have spent time,and money upon and lavished with affection would be grateful, but not my FF estate, it can only be female! This week it decided to bite me upon the backside (again), and ultimately in the wallet.

The heads that I had had rebuilt with weld, and new guides, and even had pressure tested have been found to have so much corrosion in the exhaust ports (from being left full of water) that the valve inserts are in danger of falling out some day. Maybe not when the engine is first run, may be not in the first 5000 miles, but at some point, a seat will fall out causing valve, head and piston failure. So these are scrap.

What to do, buy another warped old set off ebay, go round the dealers and see if they have anything decent, buy a pair of SOCTFL re-made new heads at some £3600 and a long wait, no, I knew of a NOS set in the hands of a certain dealer, so I have struck a deal and purchased them - even I cannot bring myself to say how much they have cost, let me say however they are less money than the new SOCTFL ones, but more than a secondhand engine.

I suppose that I should be very grateful for Roy Burrell, his work and inspection of the heads saved a calamity and even more expense at some later date.

I really really hope that's the end of the nasty surprises.

On a brighter note I collected the footwell trim panels from Aldridge Trimming today

and delivered them an old complete and dis-coloured headlining from which they are going to make me a new one, so that's another job partially off the pending list.

I have resolved the brake pipe issues across the front bulkhead today, by finding some 3 pipe clips that fit and have similar dimensions to Triumphs 2 pipe fixing clips, a good reliable MOT approved fix

Finally a trip to Mick Dolphin sourced some other bits and pieces that I needed, including a right hand side grap strap - I already had the left handed ones.

The grubby white blocks - which will clean, (its the old mould release wax and years of dirt!) are the sunvisor retainers.

Finally I got the support rail fixed to the new driver's side shelf

So slowly and steadily the project moves forward

Two Steps Forward, and one Backwards

2011-11-27T17:11:00.001Z

I knew that I had forgotten some jobs from the jobs list, so despite finishing some items, I have added another to the list, and done an extra two that I had not put on the list.

I was looking for the bumper brackets today to fit the bumpers, and while hunting about for the parts I found this

It fits on the inside of the panel where the fuel filler cap is, to stop the filler cap fixings damaging the body, so this had to go on. I wonder what else I will find that I have forgotten!

The front bumper fitted perfectly, its NOS, and although the chrome isn't perfect, its how the factory supplied them, so that's half the bumpers done. I had to clean out the threads on the mounting holes with a tap before the bolts would go in.

I then got out the rear sections and found to my horror that the driver's side quarter bumper, which looks like a 2000 one, isn't, as the mounting is in the wrong place, so no rear bumper fitted today, and I need to source a good 1/4 bumper - I have had a look on the internet and I know who has stock, so that's another hit on the wallet tomorrow.

Front brake pipes next, I refitted the serviced pwda valve that I had done many moons ago, changed the unions on the front pipes going to it (they are larger than the rear brake pipe unions to prevent funny cross connection by the unwary! - and finally made up and fitted the offside front brake pipe. I need to fabricate some clips for this, because instead of following the usual route across the front cross-member, this car has it following the 2 pipes from the servo, before it disappears down the inner wing on the driver's side.

While under the car I remembered that I had some improved drop links for the anti roll bar to fit, I was recommended to use them by a forum member who's identity I have forgotten, but they are a great deal better than the originals, so thank you who ever you are!

Old type

New ones

Fitted the NOS steering wheel as well

Finally I laid out the trim panels that I had finished yesterday in the load area - just to check the fit and not really just to admire how good they looked!

And that's it for today, 6 more hours bringing the total to 799

Next week its time to commission and check the electrics - must get some spare fuses !

Jobs to do, and some completed!

2011-11-26T17:36:00.000Z

Right the project back on course, I have made some real progress this week.

Firstly I got the heads delivered to Roy Burrell, he has promised them back before Christmas, so I can complete the engine by mid January.

This is important as the car is now booked in at JP Exhausts in Macclesfield at the end of January for them to fabricate two extractor manifolds, and the entire exhaust system. I must say I was very pleasantly surprised at the cost, which I thought was most reasonable, not much more than the cost of 2 complete Stag systems from Rimmers with 2 of their extractor manifold kits. These will fit too, and are being built with V band joints, so no sleeves to split if I ever need to remove the exhaust, or its components for maintenance on other parts of the car. Can't wait to get this done, as I think its the last major milestone left, and I was worried about the potential bill.

I have also put the wheels in motion to get the DVLA to re issue the car's original Registration. I have now got my V765 form and all the documentation off to the club, with the appropriate fee, I just have to get Chris Allen round now to do the inspection, so if you are reading this Chris, please drop round some time.

As to work on the car, I couldn't quite face a cold garage today, so I decided to finish off the interior boot trim boards, by cleaning and fixing back the aluminium and rubber trim strips, with 4mm rivets and washers.

Here's the first one finished with the old one behind it.

and the rest

and finally all laid out how they will go in the car, I am chuffed to bits with these, looks a million dollars!

I'd have done more, but Alan Chatterton and family dropped in and we had a pleasant afternoon discussing Triumphs and the RBRR, anyway, its the cold garage for me tomorrow.

Hours worked today 6 total now 793 (seems ages since I tallied that up)

Costs to date, there's a few ebay purchases, the trim work and a few other bits and pieces to be added of £590, so the grand total is now £15430.

My jobs list to finish the car looks something like this (and I am certain to have forgotten a few things), so the target is to clear 4 or 5 items a weekend.

These jobs are in no particular order, with items that I have forgotten added to the list at the end.

1). Fit offside front brake pipe and fabricate brackets forsame

2). Change union on nearside front brake pipe at PWDA valve

3). Bleed brakes

4). Fill gearbox and transfer box with ATF

5). Fit gearbox to engine stiffeners

6). Adjust handbrake

7). Test all electrics – including fitting wires to autoinhibit switch and relays for headlamps

8). Replace rear tailgate hinge tortion bars

9). Fit remainder of exterior brightwork (rear windowsurrounds)

10) Fit new Ted Taylor windscreen

11). Fit dash parcel shelves

12). Fit interior trim to B and C pillars

13). Fit seat belts

14). Fit side carpet panels to front cockpit

15). Fit ABS electronics module

16) Fit front and rear bumpers

Now done-17) Fit trim strips and fittings to rear load area panels-Now Done

18) Fit carpets

19) Fit headlining

20), Fit remaining interior trim, side panels and wood torear of estate

21) Fit seats

22). Complete heads after machining as follows, fit Valvesand springs, cam buckets and camshafts, gap tappets with shims

23). Fit heads and timing chains, front cover, and pulley

24). Fit water pump

25). Fit inlet manifold and carbs, with fuel pipes,breathers and accelerator cable

26). Fit Dizzy, plug leads and coil

27) Fit radiator and cooling fan and remaining hoses

28) Fit alternator and PAS pump with belts etc

29) Make up PAS to pump pipes (won’t take standard Stagones!)

30). Insert petrol and see if it starts

31). Test gearbox and check kick down

32). Fix run out on front disks – suspect its a hub /bearing issue

33) Fit trim strip to rear window seal

34) Fit window winders and internal door handles

35) Fit ashtrays!

36). Fit NOS steering wheel

37). Fabricate and fit exhaust system inc custom tubularmanifolds

38). Fit windscreen wipers and new blades

39). Rust proof box sections with Dinotrol

40). Replace a few vacuum hoses on servo and connect toinlet manifold

41). Complete bonnet lead loading and paint somehow and fit

42). MOT

part done-43). Get old registration back-part done

44). Cure slow airleak in 2 tyres

45). Run and test!

46). Fit trim to rear seats

Not much left to do then!

No time to Loose

2011-11-21T17:25:00.001Z

Now I am committed for the RBRR with the car there's no time to loose, I don't want to be finishing it in the Plough car park!

I have dug the cylinder heads and inlet manifold out.

I found some unusual rust in the core plug under the manifold - glad I spotted this - I'd have been blaming the water pump, or the inlet manifold gaskets in due course. The hole is shown by the self tapper in the following picture.

The heads have already had the valves and guides replaced, and the seats recut. However when these were inspected the castings were porous in some areas, so I had them welded. They pass pressure testing OK now, but as you can see some of the combustion chambers are a funny shape round the edge where weld has been let in. This needs shaping, and the sharp chamber edges smoothing off (to prevent detonation - pinking).

Its a lot of work and expense, but worth it as the heads are low mileage and haven't warped, and haven't been excessively skimmed.

I am going to cheat a little as these are being delivered to Roy Burrell tomorrow so he can work his magic upon them, I may get them ported a little at the same time too. This engine is going to need all its horse power to overcome 4wd losses

So that's one set of jobs underway, when they come back and I get them bolted on I will try and fire up the engine for the first time in many many years

Over a beer with Fatboyslim

2011-11-20T10:29:00.000Z

Since the paintshop debacle the estate project's really been on hold. Although I have the money back, I cannot get motivated to get on with the car, and I am having trouble getting another paintshop which has time to take the car in. In a sense the lack of paintshop progress has been used as an excuse not to do anything with the car.

The amount of weekend work that I have had hasn't helped matters either.

If I hang on for another paintshop to be ready, many more months will have passed and no more work will have been done on the car.

So after a pint or two with Dave Pearson at the Manor House the other night, and after discussions about the RBRR and other Triumph related matters a cunning plan has been hatched.

I have made the decision to complete the car, but with the paint in its current state. At a later date I'll have a respray done of the exterior only. As the bonnet hasn't been painted at all, it may mean running it with a black bonnet like the Swiss car, but at least it will be on the road and running.

In a sense the car is quite near completion, but there are lots and lots of jobs that do need attending to.

So the way forward is going to be something like this:-

1). Get the heads finished - these had the porous areas welded up, and other work done, but I am left with mis-shaped combustion chambers - they need grinding and polishing, and chambers equalising .

2). Finish the engine when the heads are on, I already have the carbs done by Andrew Turner and ready for fitment

3). Then get the car off to an exhaust fabricator for a full system, manifolds and all, the exhaust people aren't too busy at present at the end of the motorsport season.

4). While this is ongoing complete the other small jobs to be done
a). one last brake line
b). test the electrics
c). fit the headlining (I may replace the botched tailgate hinges at this point too)
d). bleed the brakes
e). fire the engine up
f). complete the interior
g). fit the bumpers
h) fetch and fit my new windscreen - thanks to Ted

and finally drive the car !

you see there really isn't that much left to do!

It needs an MOT, an inspection by the Club to prove its authenticity and get the old registration back.

Completion IS going to be late spring, so it can have a few miles put on it before attending the Triumph 2000 register National, and its going to do the RBRR next year (assuming I get a place).

I have found a few more goodies for the car in recent months:-

A NOS drivers parcel shelf - this needs the crash rail fitting from my existing one, pity about all the repair work that I undertook on the original shelf

A pair of NOS original triumph front seat belts

So there we are, that's whats going to happen, ongoing support, and progress inspection visits from you lot are now required to keep me on track and the car going forward

Money and the interior

2011-08-09T19:08:00.000+01:00

Got the money from the bank today - must not spend it - must keep it safe for the new paint job!

As work has now slowed down after the summer rush I also got along to Aldridge Trimming today and collected the work they had done for me which is a new set of boot boards, and various backing pieces for the rear seat squab and upright.

All I have to do now is clean and add the aluminium and rubber runners, and all the chrome bits - job for the weekend I think.

Chuffed to Bits

2011-07-08T19:40:00.000+01:00

Well its all happening now, 2 posts in a week, but this one is about really really good news.

I have finally had a decision from my Bank's legal Dept.

They have agreed that the paint (and other work) is defective and that the Paint Shop should have rectified it without fuss or trouble, so they are paying me for:-

a). A full bare metal repaint
b). the costs of transporting it to and from another paintshop
c). the costs of trim removal and replacement
and
d). the cost of the chassis tilter and other items retained by the previous paint shop.

Its not going to be quick, even though the refund (which is more than the cost of the original job due to the extra work required and parts retained) will be here in a few days, but at least I can move ahead.

I have found a new body man, and he will take the car later this summer when he has space and time, although it will probably be with him for 4 months. He used to paint Bentley's and the like so I am sure my Triumph will get the paintwork it deserves.

Very Very happy tonight, after all the disappointment and upset.

There's a little further satisfaction too, in that the same legal dept will be seeking to reclaim the bank's money from the Paint Shop.

Maybe finished for Christmas, certainly for next spring, only a year later than planned, but the 4x4 2000 WILL be on the road again after all these years in 2012.

I think I am going to have a little celebration drink or two tonight!!

Shiny Shiny

2011-07-05T18:11:00.000+01:00

I know its a long time since I posted, but the poor paint saga continues, the paint continues to deteriorate, every panel has pin holes now, and on most you can now see the marks from the orbital sanders, revealing a load of close lines in the paint. There is a great deal of shrinkage of the paint.

If this isn't resolved by the NEC Classic Car show I am thinking of displaying the car, with ALL the paint defects on show so that everyone can see what a poor job was done. Anyway enough of the paint.

I went to the platers today - Marque Restore who are just down the road from me and collected the replated interior seat fittings, what a good job, the picture doesn't do it justice, because I am leaving the parts in the poly bags for protection, but they are just like new, all the screws bolts and other fittings are perfect too.

I have heard from Aldridge Trimming that all the seat backs and load area panels are complete now, so if I get a few hours I will collect them this week too.

Depressing News

2011-04-10T10:25:00.000+01:00

Well its official now, I have had 2 new paintshops in to inspect the estate this weekend. Both have said the same, there's no way they will undertake the work unless they strip back all the exterior paint. They cannot be sure what has caused the problems, and there's no way they can give me a warranty on the new paint unless they bare metal the car. Thats got to be done by hand too with a DA and hand finished where a DA cannot get to, because they dont want to use chemicals because of the issue of removing the chemicals afterwards. They may look at soda blasting but its still not going to be quick.

So its a full strip of all the trim, glass, door mechanisms, lights etc etc. Then it goes to the new paintshop. What's worse is that they have both said that they will want the car for 3 - 4 months. Then when I get it back all the trim needs refitting. What a set back, hours and hours of additional unecessary work, plus it won't be finished for this summer now. At the moment I cannot even begin to face the task of the strip down - I suspect it will be a couple of weeks now before I commence that. I have got to remove the new and reconditioned parts carefully, and pack them away carefully hoping that I don't damage them in the process. Absolutely gutted!

The money thay want for the job is eyewatering too (some 80% or so of the original cost to do the entire car), I know I will recover this, but it another outlay, and an ongoing hassel.

Assessor's Paint Report

2011-04-03T09:14:00.001+01:00

Here is the Assessor's report on the Paint, just names and costs removed to protect the innocent!

Our Ref: 8,41692 14 March 2011

Vehicle: Triumph 2500Type: 5 Door Estate

Reg No: YKV 201L

Chassis: MG57046SCBWP

Mileage: 00000Colour: Triumph White

Date of lnsp: 11 March 2011

Location: Sutton Coldfield

ENGINEERS REPORT -Post Repair lnspection

Dear Sir,

Thank you for your instructions in this case, we confirm completing our post repair inspection of the above mentioned vehicle at your home address - date as above. We understand that the purpose of this inspection is to provide a completely independent unbiased opinion of the quality and overall standard of paint work recently completed by XXXXXXXXX

History

We understand that this is a particularly rare vehicle and is currently part way through a full restoration. lt has been completely stripped of all mechanical and trim components; the body shell has been stripped back to bare metal by Surface Treatments of Dudley, following which an Electro Coating treatment has been applied. Both front wings and front panels have been replaced with new and the roof has been replaced with that from a donor vehicle.

At the time of inspection the vehicles condition can be described as a painted rolling shell, fitted with suspension, doors, tailgate, glass, fuel tank, door trims, dash and sound deadening pads. The bonnet remains to be restored and painted. As we have not had the opportunity of inspecting the vehicle prior to paint, we are unable to comment in detail on costs. We are advised that at figure of XXXX + vat was originally quoted for the work which has now increased by a further XXXX + vat.

Paint finish

First impressions of the work are generally good and paintwork is finished inside and out to a good standard. The colour match to what little of the original can be seen also appears good.

However on close inspection there are a number of issues to the detail which are of concern, in our opinion most appear to be the result of lack of attention to detail during the final stages of paint and final presentation

In considering the overall job and not wishing to be over critical of the repairs, we have also given consideration to the sum charged for this work. In conclusion we are of the opinion that the following issues noted are unacceptable given the costs involved.

We can confirm having noted the following issues which in our opinion require attention:

1). Front panel (top) - multiple dirt inclusions

2). O/S/F Wing - multiple dirt inclusions, repair flaw to the outer arch edge, paint cracked around 2 spot welds on wing flange.

3). N/S/F Wing-multiple dirt inclusions, plug welds on flitch side untidy and showing through due to insufficient preparation, paint transparent along front panel joint which appear to be as result of over polishing.

4). Windscreen Scuttle panel - multiple dirt inclusions, large paint sag to the n/s, sealer has been omitted from scuttle to inner wing joints on both sides.

5). Roof panel-multiple dirt inclusions, ripples evident across the entire width (between swage lines/centre areas) in several places, distorted/poorly replicated swage line to the o/s (above 'C' Post), small dent to the n/s/f area.

6). Tailgate-dirt inclusions and pin holes to the exterior paint surface, paint around the hinge bolts is damaged, alignment to the roof requires attention and the torsion rod hinge system will not either lift or hold the tailgate in the open position.

7). Rear Panel, paint run to o/s top corner, sealer omitted from the joints on both sides between lamp panels and rear panel.

8). O/S/R Quarter panel - sealer omitted from rear window aperture corner, small paint blisters to window frame suggesting moisture penetration, frame edges rough and poorly finished, profile of lower window frame edge not matching n/s frame.

9). N/S/R Quarter panel - sealer omitted from rear window aperture corner, small paint blisters to window frame suggesting moisture penetration, profile of lower window edge not matching o/s frame.

10). O/S/R lnner wheel arch (underside) -Paint work damaged.

11). Vertical surface of rear window surrounds are rippled and not finished flat.

12). Rear window frame flange joints have separated between spot welds, leaving large visible gaps requiring closing between spot welds.

Summary/recommendations

In general and as mentioned above the paint work is to a reasonably good standard, there are a number of areas with dirt inclusion which can be addressed, however there are more serious issues with the roof and tailgate hinge system.

For reassurance we can confirm that an element of dirt inclusion is common in vehicle refinishing, as also is an element of paint sinkage around repair areas. Both issues in most cases can be addressed and satisfactorily rectified by flatting and polishing once that the paint has fully cured. There are however more complex issues to be considered if attempts are to be made to rectify the repair sinkage lines and correction of the o/s roof swage line.

As we are unaware of the condition of the panels prior to paint, also of the amount of material applied, it is difficult to now provide the best advice as to the method of rectification. We can however confirm that to restore the correct roof swage line will certainly require rework and repainting. The same will also be required to both rear window frames. Localised paint work may be sufficient for the front wing flanges, rear panel joints and inner rear wheel arch.

With regard to the tailgate lift system, we understand that tension has been lost as a result of the one rod being cut and re welded. We suggest that this will most likely now require replacing as a unit in order to regain sufficient tension to lift the rear hatch.

This report is based upon the instructions received and on what was visible to us at the time of our inspection.

We confirm that we have attached a selection of annotated photographs which indicate some of the issues referred to above.

"l confirm that I have made clear which facts and matters referred to in this report are within my own knowledge and which are not. Those that are within my own knowledge I confirm to be true. The opinions I have expressed represent my true and complete professional opinions on the matters to which they refer."

Yours sincerely,

Lack of Progress

2011-04-01T11:54:00.000+01:00

Sadly I have reached a point where the estate project is going to slow down a lot, and there's nothing that I can do about it.

Since I have had the Vehicle Assessor's report on the paint work, and sent a copy to my paintshop for comment, nothing, nada, silence from them, for 2 long weeks. A second copy was sent to them earlier this week via recorded delivery, and I am now wondering if I will get any response at all.

So it looks as if I now need to locate another paintshop that is sympathetic to classics, suggestions please.

Its a real pain, as I cannot add anything else to the car, as it will then need removing when the paint work is fixed, and then replaced afterwards.

Also, if it goes to another paintshop, I know that they will want to bare metal the car to be able to offer any sort of warranty on their work, thats going to cause a lot of dust and dirt to be deposited over the existing items already fitted, suspension, engine, gearbox etc, so even more work and delay, even if they can take the vehicle immediately, and if they are any good the most likely situation will be a delay while they fit the car into their existing schedule of work.

The paintshop still have a few items off the car, that they never painted, I have asked for their return if they don't intend to fix the paintwork, but if they don't show, I have the added issue of having to source door check straps (I have asked arround and none of the usual suppliers appear to have stock), the plenum grill in front of the windscreen, and the door closing plates on the rear estate doors. Fortunately they never had the bonnet because I hadn't completed the lead loading at that time.

As to the money involved, I will have to pay the new paintshop in full, and then recover the cost from the first paintshop and or my credit card company - fortunately I paid by card to get protection under the Consumer Credit Act, if things did go wrong, and they certainly have.

This is supposed to be a hoby to enjoy, now its just hassel, I get enough of that at work.

On a brighter note I took the rear load area panels, and rear seat backs to Aldridge Trimming today, who are going to remake them and carpet them. They have also agreed to make me a new headlining, so I can get a few jobs in progress. The chrome trim items from the seats have also been sent to a local plating firm.

I suspect this will be my last blog posting for a while, although I may put a copy of the vehicle assessors report up.

Power Steering Pump and PWDA

2011-03-20T17:47:00.000Z

The first item to attend to was a quick coat of paint on the unfinished passenger parcel shelf, which is now ready to go back in the car

Power steering pump rebuild now, I removed the front pulley and then the 2 bolts from the rear case, and the flanged hose input leaving this

This cover is just retained by a large O ring at the front of the pump and will gently "tap off" from the front housing

Next to come out is the large circular internal clip, removal of this is helped by the hole where the small screwriver is inserted, which allows you to dislodge the clip, which when removed, and the "dish" underneath reveals this. The pump vanes are not spring loaded, but rely upon centrifugal force to force them out against the housing

The pump itself comes apart too,

and all this strips down into these component parts

After a good clean, the rebuild is a simple process of replacing the various O ring seals, lubricating it all with power steering fluid and reassembly, simples really I used a repair kit from LD Parts

Here's the rebuilt pump during painting, nice and shiney!

The PWDA valve (pressure warning differential actuator) looked like this at the start

and comes apart by unscrewing the nylon switch, then the large steel nut. The shuttle valve itself is always stuck, and the best removal method is to heavily tap the pwda valve onto something immoveable, and inertia will cause the shuttle to drop out

here are all the bits

the shuttle, top left just requires a clean and 2 new O rings, the brass body was cleaned by soaking it in vinegar overnight (coca cola works too), and I blacked the steel endpiece with that Frosts kit I used on the rivets

reassemble with some brake fluid, and here's the finished item

If Alan Chatterton requires more bling under his bonnet he can always get this chromed!, although watch out for the shuttle bore.

Thats 5 more hours today bringing the grand total hours worked to 803 hours

Trim Items

2011-03-19T16:58:00.000Z

Its always the trim and interior you do last, and in my experience you rush it as you are desperate to drive the car. Well at the moment as I wait to hear from the paint shop I have a forced layoff from working on the car directly, so I am concentrating on getting the trim items ready to fit when done, so there's no pressure to rush them and forever put up with bodges!

I have also realised how close I am now to finishing the car, I suspect I won't quite make my May deadline, which is the 2nd anniversary of the date the car first arrived home, but the jobs left to complete aren't many, and if I am correct are as follows:-

1). fabricate exhaust system
2). fit roof lining
3). fit heads and carbs
4). finish brake line to offside front brake caliper, and bleed brakes
5). fully test electrics, and fix things that don't work!
6). fit bumpers
7). finish leadloading to bonnet
8). fit wiper arms and blades
9). fit the rest of the interior trim and seats
10). fit radiator and fan
11). fit power steering pump and alternator

Apart from the final comission and test, and the exhaust system, thats probably only 10 or 11 days work, but a lot will need to wait until the paint rectification is complete, however items like the power steering pump can be stripped and rebuilt in the interim

So back to the trim items.

I wanted to complete the parcel shelves, which as you may remember were in a very sorry state. The driverside was all torn, so I stripped it to the component parts and cut out new pieces of millboard

I used the hole punch to cut the rivet holes for the bifurcated rivets, after using a stanley knife to cut the millboard. The new rivets are shiney steel, so I bought a Frosts metal blacking kit

and after dipping the rivets in the appropriate solutions as instructed I ended up with this

24 nice black rivets. After some struggles aligning everything, and then worse still working out how to clamp the rivets and fix them in place, an almost new driver's shelf

The passenger side one was complete, but squashed! However I reasoned that as it was really just thick cardboard, I could wet the cardborad, make it pliable again, and then hold it flat where required with some weights. This is how it ended up, just needs a coat of paint now

The next job of the day was to strip the chrome items off the rear seats, so they can be sent to a plating shop. So it was off to shed with a few tools and strip this lot off the seats

I suspect that lots going to cost a few pounds

The rear seats are in good condition, but need cleaning, and the black velour has faded a little, I am going to try some fabric dye on this. The backings, that form the load area floor, and indeed the load covers over the spare wheel and tank are in poor condition, the wood has warped, and the carpet is rubbish

So I stripped off the load strips, which are an aluminium channel with a rubber insert, and removed all the boards, it was fun finding the hidden fixings! I was going to recover the seat backs myself, but the carpet set I purchased is poor by the original standards, the carpets do not all have the bound edges that they should have, so after discussions with Aldridge Trimming all the boards, with carpet remnants are going off to be remade, accurately and with similar material to that which Triumph used originally, not some nasty synthetic carpet. They need the lot (as patterns), so there was no point stripping them further.

While they are away I will (gulp) polish and straighten the aluminium strips ready for refitting. They are also going to make the rear wheel arch carpet trims, and supply me some carpet for the footwell backing boards I made, and a few other bits of good carpet that I am missing.

hours worked now 797, 7 today
costs now £14840, metal blacking kit £40, refitting tyres £50, parts last week £20

Nothing beats the fumes from Contact Adhesive!

2011-03-15T20:15:00.000Z

I had to go into work early today, and as the Starret hole saw had arrived, and the foam, what better excuse than to leave early and do some theraputic work on the estate.

So I started off drilling all the holes needed in the hardboard, starret hole saw is also visible

One side of the board and the foam was then coated in high temperature contact adhesive, thats a lot of glue and a whole lot of fumes, as I was doing this on the breakfast room table Anne made me shut myself away and open a door to the garden, apparently the fumes were making her cooking taste funny!

Here's the boards with the foam stuck to them and all cut out.

Next job was to position the old vinyl on the boards and glue round the back edges only, when the glue goes off, you tension the vinyl and affix it onto the glue on the hardboard, so all the glue is on the rear face.

And here's all the finished trim panels, nice and flat, original vinyl with good fixing holes. I am going to give them a final finish with the vinyl paint, but I am happy with the result.

The 2 remaining hardboard panels need carpet gluing to them (ah more adhesive fumes) and fitting to the footwells. I have a plan for this, I am going to buy some carpet from a trimmer, and ask him to keep the rest to trim the rest of the car with.

I have to do the estate load area and seat backs now, because these are all warped and twisted too, but these will need 7 or 8mm marine ply.

Hours worked now 790, 4 today, and £14 spent on foam, £6 on hardboard.

Today I have been mostly doing woodwork

2011-03-13T19:25:00.000Z

My first day back on the car since Stoneleigh (more on that later), I wanted to get on with the interior trim parts, so I started by stripping the vinyl trim from its backing hardboard and giving it a good clean. Washing up liquid and scrubbing brush!

I needed to do this because all the backing board is damaged and warped

I need to source the thin foam that covers the board as removal and reuse is a pig - anyone know where you can buy 3-4mm thick foam?

Anyway several hours later here are all the backing boards remade and tested for fit.

I still need to drill the mounting clip holes, which are 13mm diameter, but I need to get a sarrett hole saw for this, as large conventional twist bit drills just tend to drill a strange shaped hole in hardboard.

When complete I am going to give the vinyl a quick paint with vinyl coat paint, as there are surface marks after the cleaning, and the nos rear hatch board donated by Alan Chatterton (which was brown originally) looks really good after 3 coats of vinyl coat.

I then dug out the parcel shelves, which currently look like this

Getting the rivets out is a pain, and left me with blisters, but I got the driver's side unit stripped down like this

the shelf itself looks OK, so I am only going to replace the upright trim, now that I have some millboard and the templates to make it from.

One of the tyres is still going flat too, so I only managed to fix 3 out of 4!

That was all the work for today.

Back to Stoneleigh, although I had a good show, 3 of my visitors were also involved in painting cars professionally. They pointed out various paint defects to me, and suggested that I get a report from a qualified assessor. This I have now done, and his report is a bit depressing. because as well as the dirt which has surfaced in the paint, there are fish eyes (from silicon contamination), some evidence of micro blistering (from trapped water), and pin holes developing from solvents trapped in the primer layer. There's also shrinkage and various other defects are appearing. To rectify it appears that there's a lot of rework to be undertaken, and several panels need stripping back to bare metal. Needless to say this takes some of the enjoyment out of the project, and is certainly going to cause delays while the rectification is undertaken. Additionally some of the exterior trim needs stripping off . I am not a happy bunny!

Hours worked now 786, 6 hours today.

I prefer to call it cleaning

2011-02-27T18:02:00.000Z

2 days work, and only one blog update, because I went out with Anne last night and didn't have an opportunity to update the blog.

I am trying to fit as much as possible to the car before it goes to Stoneleigh on the 2000 Register stand, and I want to make it water proof this time. Hunting for removed parts (to refit) in my shed, always turns up some other items to fit too.

I wanted to get the fuel tank in, so I could complete the fuel lines, so first job was to inspect the sender. Like everything else, rusted solid, so new one to hand it was put in the tank.

Then I remembered that before the tank goes in, there are some sound deadening pads to fit, and from the depths of the shed here they are, what a mess!

Covered in paint, underseal, ziebart and grot, so after cleaning ( I'll leave the polishing to others!) with white spirit and soapy water they look almost new when glued into place

so next it was in with the repainted tank, and make the fuel lines up

typically the replacement filler hose has too large a diameter to fit the original hose clips, so thats another item to purchase, and when I fit those, I will also fit the breather pipes and drain from the fuel filler. I also need to fit another inline fuel filter before the fuel pump.

While in the shed I found and cleaned various other sound deadening pads and fitted those too

I cannot find a footwell mat for the passenger side, so that looks like another part to aquire.

Having also found the choke / heater cable re-inforcing bracket in the shed, I wanted to fit the centre console.

I had purchased a new Stag choke cable (it needs 2 cables for the 2 Strombergs) however the Stag knob is incorrect for a 2000, now this should be easy to change, the original ones have a little pin you depress and they slide off the shaft. Sadly not the repro cables, the knob is molded onto the shaft and is not removable. The fix was obvious, use my old inner shaft, inner cables and knob with the new outer assembly and outer cables ( it was the outer cable sleaves that were U/S on the old unit. However that means threading the 2 inner cables down a 3 inch tube into the correct and narrow inner core of the cables. Not Easy !! in fact a real pain, I wish I hadn't started this game. I hour later and much swearing I achieved the almost impossible, and here's how the complete assembly looks when fitted. Well worth the grief in retrospect.

The it was time for the rear doors, got all the mechanisms in these, and the winders fitted. I still need to fit some rubber to hold the glass in the lower channel that lifts it up and down, but it all works, and as soon as I fit the rubber strip the door cards can go on.

I need to refit the rear estate windows now, but these are simple and the fit will be temporary, because there is a little bit of paint rectification to be undertaken around the rear window frames, before these can be completed.

780 hours now worked, 14 in the past two days.

Doors and Glass.

2011-02-20T17:20:00.000Z

First job of the day was to get the new gear selector rod fitted and the gear stick actually connected up (the auto parking brake now works too!)

I cleaned up and fitted the starter inhibitor wiring at the starter end, and to the reverse light circuit, and then found that there is no way to get to the inhibitor switch until the front propshaft is removed - I left this for now, it can go on the pending jobs list.

The rest of the day has been spent fighting with door lock mechanisms, window winder parts, and all the other inaccessible parts inside the front doors. I have fitted the polythene liners too, I remember from bitter experience with my Stag that if these aren't fitted the door cards get damp.

I had 2 nos front windows from Chris Witor, so these went in. The worst job was remembering how to get the winder mechanism in. At one point I thought it needed to go in before the glass and the quarter light frame, but luckily at the correct angle, with the fixing mechanism at a certain position compared to the lifter arm in it went.

So here we are 2 front doors complete, with window seals, door cappings etc etc, just the striker plates to adjust now

I want to finish the rear doors next week, handbrake cable and a few other jobs so its water proof and ready for Stoneleigh.

766 hours now worked, 8 today.

Dash it

2011-02-19T18:26:00.000Z

With the arrival of the reconditioned wood from Chapman & Cliff I couldn't wait. Today had to be the day the dash went in. Took a long time, there were more bits that needed cleaning and painting, including the glove box hinges, but it was well worth the effort, its looking more and more like a car as the parts go back on.

Its only a trail fit of the centre console and heater controls, I wanted to see it all fits (and the finished result too!), but its got to come out to fit the gear selector linkage, from the box to the gear stick. I do have one, but like a lot of the original parts its very very rusty, so thats another item I got from Justriumph. The gear selector cover does fit, but I have no clips for it at present, so it won't fit correctly unless you hold it in place. I also cannot find the switch panel reinforcing plate, so its either time to make one, or have a good hunt about for it.

I managed to pop rivet the metal straps under the plenum vents today too.

I also solved a mystery today!

For some time I have been wondering where the cable is that connects to the gearbox inhibitor switch for reverse lamps and the starter inhibitor, with it being an automatic.

While I was hunting for other bits I found this.

Its a small loom extension, the 4 lucar connectors on the right connect to the inhibit switch, the 2 green (currently dirty black) wires connect to the existing reverse lamp switch wires, and the 2 white red wires go to the starter motor and pick up the solenoid wiring diverting it via the inhibitor switch. Obviously no relay fitted then! just a simple break switch in the starter ignition wiring. Thats got to go on the car, and sooner rather than later. When I get the gear selector wired up, I can test the inhibit switch and then fit this. I hope the inhibit switch is reliable!

After that it will be back to the doors and their fittings, I'd like to finish the front doors tomorrow, and get their wood trim on.

Hours worked 758 7 today and 3 in the week

Money spent £14730 - £495 on the woodwork

Got the Wood

2011-02-16T19:08:00.000Z

I've been to Nantwich today, and got all the wood work from Chapman & Cliff, fantastic job, my pictures don't do it justice. The pattern is matched the entire way across the dash, from air vent on the left, glove box, clock panel to instrument panel. Sets off the reconditioned instruments well doesn't it?

The grain on the door cappings is also mirrored from side to side.

Brilliant job, now to fit it to the car - very carefully.

Also got a really good second hand petrol tank from Martin at Justriumph, so after painting that can also go in the car this weekend

Bits and Pieces

2011-02-14T21:04:00.000Z

As I didn't get my Sunday work in on the estate I am trying to do a few hours most nights this week, so remaining underbonnet jobs tonight. Firstly the metal bulkhead fittings under the plenum vents. These are always rusty, and certainly weren't fit to refit, so I cut 2 out of some 2mm stainless steel - pity the pop rivets that I had aren't long enough to go through them, the mat and the bulkhead!

Power steering pipes next, got them out of the packet, and found they don't fit, you can see the end of the flare below, and the red plug in the rack where one of them should fit - with the drive shaft underneath. So I peered under the bonnet of my Stag, and I realised that where they normally exit the rack, there's a drive shaft, so they have turned the housing round by 1/3 of a turn (it has 3 bolt holes), this of course means the bends in the pipe, and the pipes are too long.

Luckily my brake pipe flaring tool will cope with the 1/4" and 3/8" pipes, so I cut the old flares off, and some pipe length, reflared them and they now fit. Although they may need a bit of "tweaking", so I need to trial fit the head and power steering pump to check this before finally tightening them.

Thats it for now. 2 hours work tonight.

Steering Column and Doors

2011-02-12T18:50:00.000Z

The new bearing for the column arrived yesterday, so now was as good a time as any to fit it.

Removal is easy undo the circlip, the spring and washer pop off, and the bearing can be drifted out - I use the existing shaft, by drifting it upwards until it clears the bearing, let it drop down then drift the bearing out by tapping it from the other end.

The bearing is a gentle push fit in the column, but you are then left with the problem of how to compress the spring and fit the circlip

Simples really, undo the circlip at the other end of the shaft, and push it up the shaft, together with the indicator canceller, then drift the shaft down again

It will suddenly have enough room to fit the circlip, washer and spring

To finish, push down on the steering column, from the top, this compresses the spring, lets the shaft slide upwards, and enables you to push the top circlip home, job done, just refit the column now, and add extra grease to the lower bearing

That done, I fitted a few more missing grommets from the floorpan and bulkhead, a missing circlip to the windscreen wiper drive motor and then started on door locks and glass. This work was a little slow, as I hadn't documented or separated the parts from the 4 doors when I stripped them, everything looks the same, ( a front door lock, fits a rear door, but then you discover you cannot fit the linkage for the inner door opener - ask me how I know!) but has subtle differences, so I needed to work out where it all went, then clean and degrease it etc etc.

Still got the glass in the front passenger door, door locks fitted and weather seals in.

New old stock inner door handles, nos 1/4 light assembly, just the window winder to fit here.

Did the same on the passenger rear door too

When closed the door seals are pushing the bottom of the doors out a little, hopefully that will improve as the rubber gets used to being compressed - its not an issue from pattern rubber parts either as the front door seal was a genuine nos Stanpart one - a little adjustment will be needed to hinges and locks too, but both doors are good enough for now.

I haven't fitted the winder mechanisms, as I may yet change the glass, in the cold light of day there are a lot of marks on the glass, and as nos clear windows are still available and are relatively cheap it may be worth the small extra effort of changing them - something to mull over in the next few days.

I collect the woodwork on Wednesday, so dash and instruments are definitely going in next - I cannot wait to see what it will look like, doors and glass will wait again.

Hours worked 748 - 7 today

Money spent £14235 - £30 for the column bearing

Better Progress Today.

2011-02-09T19:24:00.000Z

I started today with some simple jobs, fitted the radiator expansion bottle mount, and the bottle (not much room near this FF vacuum reservoir)

Then it was time to fit the fuse box mount

and the accelerator pedal

then back to the transmission oil cooler pipes, new flexible pipes fitted and everything fastened down with P clips

I then finished the under bonnet wiring using P clips again

This means that I can now progress the engine and fit the heads, as all this wiring will become inaccessible soon.

Some other trim jobs done too, like the sill embellishers (horrible job marking out and fitting 10 clips each side all in a straight line to hold the trim on)

I then removed the steering column to attend to the play that I had caused in it, when I originally refitted it.

However when the play was cured (by removing the updown movement on the shaft) I found that the bottom shaft bearing was as rough as a badger's arse! Its a roller ball race, tensioned with a spring, and it must have corrosion in the bearing race. There's no seal or protection for the bottom ball bearings and it must have suffered from the rust bug that the rest of the car had. These are still available but about £30 each!, still I bit the bullet and ordered one and will replace the column later

Replacement is easy, remove the circlip, then the spring, drift the inner column up and out, then pull the bearing out and reverse the process.

Still that was enough for today.

Hours worked now 741 - 8 today

What a Faff about

2011-02-08T18:05:00.000Z

The plan for today was simple and I thought straightforward, fit the transmission oil cooler, so I could fit the pipes, then fasten down the various wires pipes and clips in the engine bay.

Nothing was simple, for some reason (hangover??) it took me a couple of hours to figure out the fitting arrangement of the oil cooler to its brackets, drill the hole for the pipes through the radiator support panel, and fit it all in place behind the front valence.

Still that done, onto the pipe work, I had purchased some new pipes in copper, and I got those in place only to discover that the flexible pipes from the transmision are too short.

You can just see the air gap of about 8 inches to one of the pipes under the oil pump. So off with the flexible pipes (which are now going back to the supplier) and a trip to Pirtek to have some custom ones made up to the correct length. When the flexible pipes are installed, I can shorten the copper pipes as required, as the oil cooler end has a clamp "olive" type arrangement allowing the pipe length to be shortened. Once done the pipes and heavy cables will be secured with P clips - some nice stainless steel ones also visible with old and new flexible pipes below, and all should be neat tidy and reliable.

While I was out I also collected from the powder coaters, my fusebox and relay holder and the expansion bottle bracket.

Unlike Stags, the bottle holder was only pop riveted in place (like the battery box - because of the nature of the prototype modification) and the ecoating process had dissolved the pop rivets! - so thats another 2 items to fit tomorrow.

Costs now £14205 - powder coat and pipes

Hours worked now 733 - 5 today, 7 at the weekend

2 Jobs Completed Today

2011-02-06T20:38:00.000Z

Only 2 jobs finished on the estate today, but both essential to see it running, firstly I finished the fuel lines from the tank via the pump to the under bonnet fuel filter,

and then I made up all the brake pipes on my own trusty brake flaring tool.. Because I have used copper pipe I have fitted some extra brake pipes in some places, essential where you are using copper as it is prone to fatigue fractures where it is unspported over long lengths. The original steel pipes don't require as much support.

This photo is prior to fitting the front to rear pipe and the remaining offside front pipe.

Because I didn't have patterns for most of the pipes, I used a thick piece of cable as a "dummy" pipe to get the length correct before cutting and flaring the pipe.

and to save corrosion issues stainless steel unions

Chapman and Cliff have also telephoned to say that all the wood work is ready for collection so I am off to nantwich to collect it next week, so I will be able to get the dash and instruments in and complete.

Wiring

2011-01-30T18:44:00.000Z

I started today by finishing off the dynamat, to the wheel arches and roof.

Then it was wiring time, I need to get the rear loom installed, and the feeds to the door switches, roof lamps, screen heater etc, and see what is missing (the car had a sun roof before, so the roof light wasn't in its normal position), and see what does and doesn't work.

Loom in, connected up, and testing begun

It all seems to work OK, but I need to extend some of the roof wires to the lamp and the tailgate. I also seem to have mislaid the wiring for the heated rear screen, so that's more cable to buy.

I have completed another door seal too, so just 2 doors left to do.

I want to be sure the wiring was OK, because my dash and other wood trim is due back from Chapman and Cliff anyday, so I will be able to fit this and the reconditioned instruments. Next task, is to modify a carpet for the tranmission tunnel, but thats for another day.

hours worked now 748 - 7 hours today.

Dynamat Day

2011-01-23T17:10:00.000Z

I spent all day fitting Dynamat Extreme sound deadening pads to the estate, supposedly better than the original bitumen pads for sound deadening, and I have covered the entire floor area, including the boot floor, and the inside of the doors and the rear wings.. Its an attenpt to ensure it doen't "boom" with exhaust resonance, which the estates are prone to, and I suspect the Stag exhaust won't help either. I used 32 sheets at 4sq ft each, and I still need another 5 to do the roof and finish the rear wheel arches.

However when thats complete I can then rust proof the box sections and doors with waxoil or similar. Its no good waxoiling first, as the adhesive on the dynamat sheets will not stick.

I did a little more on the brakes too, started making up brake pipes, to find I had no male ends in stainless steel - the ones I had were all metric.

So next job, door seals, what a PIG to fit into the c section channel on the doors, still I finished one door and have started another - its really a job to spend an hour on, and then go back to later, as your hands get very sore pushing the seal into the channel with a screwdriver.

741 hours worked, 9 today

costs now £14545 - £450 on Dyanamat, new bonnet scoop and misc parts. It doesn't include the painting as that's not finished yet

Brakes and other bits

2011-01-18T19:16:00.000Z

Firstly, with my thanks to some new friends and their FF cars (Jensen Interceptors) and no I won't mention my new Interceptor here, a plumbing diagram for the Maxaret Brake system - although my estate uses a Mullard Electronics box to control things, not a Maxaret valve

On to todays work - thought I'd get the propshaft on, handbrake cable fitted, and the brakes plumbed in.
Well the propshaft went in OK,

Fitted the handbrake, and the cables, and then found that I couldn't find the handbrake compensator - its about somewhere, so I busied myself with a few other little jobs such as the heater vents and tubes in the passenger compartment -the black gunge near the edges of the heater tubes is Dum Dum sealant to keep the hot air in the right direction

That done, fitted the brake flexible hoses, and was going to start making the pipes up, when I found that I couldn't locate the brackets that connect the front brake pipes to the crossmember - they are probably with the handbrake part!

So next it was install the electric fuel pump on its brackets in the boot. Although the pump's not now an SU, it has the same fittings, is solid state, and doesn't have points to corrode. Got that from LDParts. I think this is the correct position for the pump, the old one was just loose on what remained of the boot floor, with no trace of the mountings remaining

Next job was to get the fuel line in, and the rest of the brake pipe mounting clips - all done.

That was a total of 8 hours, these bits and pieces seem to take an age, or maybe I am just getting slow.

The dynamat insulation pads arrived today, so thats a pending job for the car interior.

732 hours now, 8 today. I will update costs when I have fitted the dynamat

Its been a long time.

2011-01-16T18:54:00.000Z

Sadly due to work commitments it has been a long time since I have been able to work on the estate, but fortunately work has slowed down a little now, and I have been able to look at the project again.

It was quite strange going back in the garage again after all this time, and I spent a fair bit of time just inspecting the car and remembering where I had got with it, and remembering what was left to do.

Some more history of the car has come to light over the past months from the Manx Vehcile registration dept who have confirmed the following:-

The vehicle was first registered in the UK on 18/09/1972.

The vehicle was then re registered on the Isle of Man on 19/05/1975. The vehicle was then exported off the Island on 17/11/1983. The vehicle had one owner whilst it was registered on the Isle of Man.

I had some luck on ebay and I managed to purchase a new bonnet scoop, so thats another item taken care of

So the jobs of today were to finish the front wiring loom, replacing the connectors for the alternator and battery, and getting the starter motor wired up

I then did the bonnet release cable and windscreen washers

That was it for today, but I do know what I am doing next on the car

Thats 724 Hours now, 4 worked today

Fitting Brightwork

2010-11-21T16:20:00.000Z

Its a job I hate, its time consuming, there's lots of it, its easy to damage the paintwork, and I normally leave it to last.

Not this time though, as its cold outside, and I don't fancy fitting brake pipes and propshaft and handbrake cables at the moment so I decided to get on with the outside trim.

Now if anyone has ever fitted the trim on the windscreen on a 2000 you'll know what a pig it is, still after a couple of hours got this on

and then got all the trim on the doors and the rain gutter

I have run out of clips to do the rear estate window trim so thats for another day.

also got the bonnet catch fitted.

and thats 7 hours work, bring the total to 720

Keeping up the Momentum

2010-11-20T14:46:00.000Z

In the rush to get this car ready for the show, I didn't publish the last items I managed to finish on it a week last wednesday, so here they are, all the FF bits in,

brake reservoirs

extra large vacuum storage reservoir

and some pretty bits, front grill and headlamps

and the NOS tailgate seal - a perfect fit.

Being tired today, and a little bit relieved to have got it back from the show in one piece, and its cold outside I didn't really fancy working on it, however as I was reminded yesterday, "I need to keep the momentum up", so I braved the cold and did a few hours work. All fiddly stuff, as I wanted to finish the trim on the tailgate,

so I fitted the correct rear triumph badge (especially for Dave Harvey, who was the only one that noticed I had put an incorrect badge there) and started to mark out for the rear trim.

Its a job I hate as the holes have to align up perfectly if the trim is to fit, still, all drilled and fastenings pop riveted in place.

Now trim fitted, and doesn't it look better?

The tape visible top right is holding the trim above in place while the sealant cures - I always glue these edge trim strips on, as it saves the clips that Triumph used ruining the paint.

And thanks to everyone that I saw at the show, and thank you too for your kind comments about the car, its good to know that the restoration is appreciated.

Hours worked, 4 today and 8 last wednesday so the total is now 713.

Tuesday's work on the estate

2010-11-09T21:11:00.000Z

This blog is a bit brief because everything went to plan and I am knackered after another 12 hour session on the car.

So updates today.

Got the front wiring loom in.

Got the windscreen wiper wheel boxes and motor in

Got the Stag inertia switch in - cuts the fuel pump if you have a prang

Got the dash in

Got the steering column in and connected to the rack - can steer it now. - The column will have to come out as there is too much play in the top bearing - I think its something I have done on installation - I have probably disturbed the top star washer that holds the inner race in place, which now leaves a little up / down play

Got the front screen in - no trim finishers - they are too time consuming for now

Got the front sidelamps in and a Triumph badge on the front

Got the tail gate glass in - again the trim finisher can wait

Got the tail gate lock, striker and mechanism in and it all works

Got the number plate lamp in

Got the tailgate vents installed

Got the NOS tailgate seal installed.

Got the rear lamps installed

Got the ABS servo and control valve installed - some of the vacuum hoses need replacing but thats for another day

Tomorrow its check and tighten up the bolts on the rear suspension, and then try and get door locks fitted and the rest of the glass.

713 hours worked - 12 today

Thought it had gone too smoothly yesterday............

2010-11-09T00:31:00.000Z

Well removing the front subframe with all its bits and pieces was easy.

Putting it back with drive shafts in the way was NOT!!

The day started well, I got the 2 front drive shafts into the CV joints in the hubs and I thought this is easy.

Its not, I couldn't get the subframe back in without stripping everything off it, and to fit the rack I found that I had to partially fit the frame at the rear, leaving the front unfitted, feed the rack in, then fit the rack mounts, and then fit the frame correctly.

Couldn't get much worse - wrong - couldn't get the track control arms and the ball joints to fit the struts and onto the frame. The only method was to compress the strut, and then fit the TCA and drag strut - took a while to fathom that one out - the reason is that the designers limited the suspension travel to protect the CV joints, but don't do it in the strut, instead there is a piece of metal in the subframe where the tca attaches that limits its downward travel - hence you cannot fit it until you compress the strut.

All done though, but took 8 hours to finish the front suspension.

Did a few quick other jobs, internal bulkhead mat, heater, and pedal box now fitted.

I really really hope the engine and box work OK, I do not want to ever have to repeat / reverse this process to gain access to them. This was definitely not engineered for production, but I have had to admire the skills of the FF engineers in getting this all in place and working in basically a standard shell. When they did the Jensen FF interceptor the shell was lengthened by 6" compared to a standard car

9 hours work today and not a lot to show for it, I hope tomorrow is better.

701 hours now worked, 9 today.

Its Painted and its Home

2010-11-07T18:47:00.000Z

I am really pleased, its a lovely colour and the finish is very good, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves,

Got it unloaded - thanks for your help today Alan, although he did say that he is looking forward to giving it a good polish at the Classic Car Show!

Started on the rebuild, no time to loose

Firstly removed the front wheels and the front suspension, then Bulkhead mat in place and tunnel mat

engine and gearbox back in - and that was really easy with the reduced height of the engine having no heads, drag it under the raised car and lift - simples - and no need to worry about dropping the engine on to the car.

Do you remember what the car used to look like ?

Thats enough horror pictures, and thats it for tonight, time for a beer, back on the rebuild tomorrow

No car yet, so engine and transmission today

2010-11-06T17:27:00.000Z

The Paintshop just rang I can collect the car tomorrow - I am sooo excited.

Not long to the Classic Car Show, so the first job of the day was to rebuild the FF bits, this necessitated making my own gaskets, as my local Motor Factor doesn't stock FF parts!

Firstly hold the gasket paper in place using a couple of the bolt holes

then lightly tap round the edges with a small hammer

and low and behold you have a correctly shaped gasket, repeat the process on the inside edge, mark the bolt holes with some more hammer taps, and then cut them out with a sharp stanley knife.

4 hours later after much cleaning a complete transmission

I had been wondering how the FF transmission lubricated the bearings, as although the VC sits in a little of the transmission oil the bearings are too high to get a feed, then I notice a "scoop or cut out" in the case, above the VC, which goes to the bearings. Its very clever, oil flung off the VC as it rotates drops into the slot and then runs down to the bearings - clever engineering - you can see the cut out in the rear bearing housing, this is also the whole length of the VC housing too, and must ensure plenty of oil is collected. The picture shows the cut out just above the rope on the right handside. - unfortunately the housing is 180 degrees out from its normal working position, so its hard to see how the shape of the cut out retains the oil, but if you look at the picture upside down all becomes clear.

Then after some more work all bolted upto to the engine - I had to do this twice as I dropped one of the torque converter to flywheel bolts behind the flywheel, which necessitated removing gearbox and flywheel to retreive it - I was a little more careful second time around! I don't believe that I wanted to do that!

Here's the modified starter fitted and a view of the front propshaft

Anyway all complete, needs a little clean, and a car to put it in.

11 hours worked, 8 today, 3 on the FF strip in the week, so total hours now 692

FF Transfer Box and Viscous Coupling

2010-11-04T15:20:00.000Z

Well, I made the decision, and I am stripping the FF Transfer box.

I cannot get the front propshaft off, even with the correct C spanner so this will have to stay on for now. The rear drive flange nut was tight enough, and took a great deal of effort to remove, but that done, and the speedo drive extracted I undid the bolts holding the rear casing onto the main body. Which reveals this

this comes apart bit by bit

and more bits

then I removed the next piece of housing

And thats basically it!

The tooth wheel and brass elbow are the speed sensor for the ABS.

On inspection there's some nasty gunk in the housings, and some little bits of rust on none bearing surfaces, so a good clean and it should all be OK.

Now how it works - the output from the gearbox leaves on the splined shaft shown above, this drives the centre of the epicycle gears and the rear output flange. The output ring of the epicycle drives the outside of the VC. This has an internal spline which drives the large shaft over the gearbox input shaft, down to the chain drive, and built up without the casings looks like this.

Firstly the output shaft to the chain drive for the front propshaft

Viscous Coupling with epicycle on top

output flange drive which sits ontop of all this

Viscous Coupling

and finally front diff output chain drive

Thats it, simple really - can't understand what I was worrying about.

Next a good clean, lubrication and reassembly after making some gaskets

Sometimes its better to live in blissful ignorance!

2010-10-31T16:34:00.000Z

Things didn't go to plan today!

I drained the oil from the transfer box housing - its ATF, BUT a lot of water in it

Bit of a bugger really and may cause a rethink of my plans. No traces of rust, but is there damage to the gears and bearings?

I removed the one inspection plate / bearing housing that I could find

The bearing looks OK, a lot of emulsified oil in it. I had a look through the oil filler plug, and the drive chain seems OK, no trace of rust, but its what is hidden that matters. The front diff was Ok despite having water in it, but the rear one was U/S. So the conundrum is what to do, either strip and inspect the transfer housing, making all the gaskets, and hoping I can get it apart (and back together again!) without a manual, or refill with oil, drive it 500 miles and change the oil and see what happens. It will either be OK, or it will fall apart and what damage will it cause? I am going to mull this over for a few days before making a decision.

So I didn't mate the engine to the gearbox, but contented myself working on a few small but essential jobs - fitted the engine mounts (NOS from ebay) - I didn't realise that original left hand mounts have a void in the rubber that the repro ones don't have. Also fitted the auto gearbox to engine strengthners.

Then as I need to fit the steering column so we can manover the car, stripped and inspected this - no play in the shaft bearings so I am leaving the originals in place. However all the column electrical switches had seized so I stripped and lubricated these - good job they were hand made by Lucas, at least they are repairable, you couldn't do this with modern ones.

I also cleaned the dash, as I need this to mount the column to.

Then got the ABS vacuum valve out - I had stripped and cleaned this internally ages ago, and freed it off, but the case was a mess, mainly because it was covered with Zeibart fluid

here it is after cleaning but during derusting

So thats it for today while I decide what to do with the gearbox

681 hours now, 7 worked today.

Will it be ready in time?

2010-10-30T17:51:00.000+01:00

I have been worrying if the car will be complete enough for the Classic Car show, even without the delays at the paintshop, all the little jobs that I need to do seem to be taking a long long time, and there's lots left to do, even to get a part complete car in a "showable" state.

First job this morning was to load all the suspension into my trusty Zafira and take it to the paintshop ready for fitment after the underside is painted.

Before I went, I ground off the protruding caliper bolt and had a quick look at the disk run out - its about 15thou on both disks, and I don't know why. Is it the hub, the bearings or the disks? It will have to be investigated properly later, but right now it won't stop it going onto the wheels.

Good progress at the paintshop, drivers rear quarter loaded and finished, rear valence finished and doors off as they prepare the door shuts.

The plan is to have it painted for next weekend. I also inspected the paint New Triumph White, its been mixed specially, and looks a little more ivory in colour than the original paint, but thats whats on the Heritage certificate, and is the same as a recently painted Stag that I saw of the same age.

Got home and the first job was to scrub the grot and grease from the bulkhead mats and tunnel lining, much work and degreaser later I ended up with this

The front bulkhead needs some boot polish or similar to restore the colour, but the others are OK, the foam backing is now damp, and I would like to bring them into the house to dry, but I don't think the smell of drying degreaser will go down well with Anne.

I have also cleaned off the wiring loom, and will inspect that when dry, it needs retaping in some places, but that can wait until one night in the week when I get some loom tape from work - its pvc tape but with no adhesive.

I gave the gearbox a final clean and degrease

and also notice a FF stamping marking it as VC011, which talies with their build records - which is nice!

I have also noticed a drain and filler plug on the transfer box, time to inspect and change this oil too, I think.

Bellhousing and surface rusty torque converter now fitted

and front diff sump pan now in place.

Next its time to mate the engine and gearbox.

Hours worked now 674 - 8 today
Money spent 14085 - £20 on powder coating

Paintshop Progress

2010-10-27T18:06:00.000+01:00

I had hoped to have the car back by now, but progress has slipped a little.

I popped in to the paintshop to inspect progress today and the leadloading is complete on the passenger side

The tail gate is now a perfect fit too now

So its just the rear valence, and the driverside lead loading to complete now, plus a few other finishing off bits prior to painting.

Now that Alan has revealed that the car is going on the 2000 register stand at the NEC, I am worring about the time that I will have left to work on it after it comes back from paint. I at least want to get the engine and front drive shafts in place, so I am going to dig out the wiring loom and bulkhead mat at the weekend and get them cleaned off and ready for fitment - there's no way (I hope) that the engine and box are coming out after fitment, so I must ensure these are ready to fit.

I cannot attend all of the NEC show myself - just the Sunday, I working on The Festival of Remembrance at the Albert Hall - so Alan and Colin will be looking after the car for me on Friday and Saturday, but if anyone wants a chat please pop along on Sunday.

Front hubs and disks

2010-10-24T16:26:00.000+01:00

I haven't been to the paintshop this week - too busy at work, but I intend to have a quick look on Tuesday, I can't go tomorrow as its our 30th wedding anniversary and Anne and I are renewing our vows and having a party for friends and family - probably be a bit hungover Tuesday!

Anyway, got on with the disks today. First job was to position the newly made dust shields on the uprights and weld them in place. Then I fitted the disks to the hubs.

Then it was time to bolt the disks to the hubs and fit the bearings, and assemble it all with the outer CV joint.

It was a bit of a pig to get the bearings to seat correctly on the hub, I fitted the outer bearing first, then turned the hub and upright over, and gently drifted the bearing down on the hub (using a long thin drift through the back of the inner bearing - no race was in place for the inner bearing at this point) then I fitted the inner bearing and oil (grease) seal, and inserted the outer CV joint, gently drifting this into place, until I could fit the castelated nut and tighten it all up. I do not have a torque setting for this, so as it uses taper roller bearings I tightened to 5ft lb, and then undid the nut by one flat.

So both disks on, hubs assembled, time to fit the struts and the brake callipers.

After fitting the 2 brake callipers, I inspected the disk / calliper clearance. One side is fine, disk nicely central, although there is a little run out on this one. I'll get the dial guage out and see how much, and then try moving the disk round 90 degrees at a time against its position on the hub and see if things improve. I only noticed this as one of the lockheed caliper fastening bolts is too long and protrudes into the disk area - I could hear it just catching the disk as it rotated (its an uneven rub - so the disk / hub must be out of true), so this bolt needs removing from the caliper and shortening - its about 4mm too long

The other caliper is offset against the disk - it doesn't catch or foul anywhere, but the disk should be central, I need to take some measurements and see why, unfortunately its the "wrong way" to shim the caliper out, the caliper actually needs to be a little closer to the upright to increase the clearance. If worst comes to the worst I may get a 1.5 mm machined off the upright moutning faces where the caliper bolts on. I don't want to "butcher" the calipers as I may need to replace them at some time, so its better to correct the housing

Still it will all do for now to get the shell on its wheels when its painted. My november deadline draws closer and I have still got a lot to do.

6 hours worked today so thats 666 (wish I hadn't typed that figure) hours in total

Differential Done

2010-10-16T16:44:00.000+01:00

I suppose that I shouldn't have been so rude about Dave Pearson's painted differentials, I got my back on Friday with a lovely new crown wheel and pinion, and good quality bearings, but it was in a freshly bead blasted unpainted casing - no rust though.

new gears, and no clunks or excess play

a quick degrease, followed by 2 coats of engine laquer resolved the finish

and then it was a simple matter of pressing the hubs and bearings back onto the stub shafts, replacing the rear cover and bolting it into the rear suspension

That done it was time to carry on with the engine, so I turned it over and fitted the NOS water pump, I wanted to check this meshed ok with the jackshaft gears, and turned freely, hence doing it before the timing chains. While I was on top of the engine I also fitted 3 new coreplugs in the V, using some wellseal to ensure they are leak free.

Timing chains next, not a quick job on a Stag V8, I had got some genuine Iwis (used on Mercs) timing chains from LD Parts, together with their cam gears and jackshaft gear.

So that was enough for today, my front hub seals will arrive on monday, so I should be able to complete the front hubs and brakes then.

660 hours now worked, 7 today

Estate Progress

2010-10-14T21:16:00.000+01:00

I got the answer to the disk bolts, they are 3/8 BSF - so thats another type of fastner on the car, UNF, UNC and now BSF, still a quick trip to my local Fastner specialist in Coventry yielded some 3/8 BSF Cap heads, and on go the disks to the hubs

That done it was time to try and get the front diff onto the engine while its upside down, It fits, but what a close fit, I had a rag between it and the sump to protect the paint, but had to remove it to get it to line up. No wonder those 2 sump bolts had been ground flat, all I need now is the diff sump cover back, and I can then "right" the engine and fit the timing chains and cover.

I need the rear diff now, and the replacement oil seals for the front hubs, and all the suspension will be complete.

653 hours worked now, 3 tonight.

Paintshop and some other snags

2010-10-12T21:21:00.000+01:00

I only managed to get a quick visit to the paintshop this weekend, due to work commitments, but have managed to do a few more hours work on the car today, firstly the paintshop have started the leadloading

I am very impressed with their work so far, its of an excellent standard.

Tonight I started to assemble the new discs to the hubs, as I wanted to weld my dust shields to the hub carrier and I needed the discs and hubs on so that I can fit the dust shields correctly, the discs fit the hubs well

but god knows what thread they have tapped the bolt holes to, I have tried UNF, UNC (thats what the originals were), and metric but nothing fits - I have telephoned them and they are calling back with details

So giving up with that I fitted the bearings to the hub carriers, that went well enough, but one oil seal is too small - will nothing go right?

I contented myself by fitting the CV joint clips

and the sump to the engine,

as tomorrow I intend to fit the front diff back on the engine, thats it, one evening getting nowhere fast.

650 hours now worked - 5 tonight

New Bits

2010-10-07T19:53:00.000+01:00

I had my own little round the midlands reliability run today collecting parts for the estate,

Finally got the new Brake Disks - nice, but expensive

and the rest of the powder coating, so with the brake dust shields back and the disks I can finally finish the front suspension this weekend.

and then I went to see Mick Dolphin, and got some shiny new bits for the car - its got to look its best you know!

I'm hoping to get my diff back tomorrow (I am just hoping its not painted bright red or some other fancy colour of Mr Pearson's choice), so I will then complete all the suspension this weekend, I must hurry as the paint shop have telephoned today and confirmed that the painting will be completed within 2 weeks, and they will need the suspension and wheels, as I am not dragging the painted shell home on old wooden pallets on my trailor.

Money spent now £14065 - the disks were £400, the rest is powder coating and shiney bits.

Paint Shop and other jobs

2010-10-04T21:03:00.000+01:00

Back from my work abroad, I am disappointed to have missed the RBRR, congratulations to all who took part. The estate will be there in 2012.

Anyway popped down to the paint shop to see progress, the front end has had its first coat of primer, I think the following pictures say it all, brilliant result, its hard to explain just how flat and ripple free the panels are

I have finished painting the front driveshaft now

also painted the steel external parts on the front diff

and made the front diff gasket (thanks to mikeyb)

I started to complete the engine, to find I had the wrong sump gasket in the "conversion set" - strange as all the rest are correct

So the sumps just put in place for now

Total now 645 hours - 5 today

Do want the Good News or the Bad News?

2010-09-25T17:58:00.000+01:00

Well you are going to get the bad news first, things can only get better.

I took the rear diff to Canley Classics, and Dave has stripped and inspected it. Upon cleaning there was an obvious rust mark across all the components where they had been out of the oil for the last 30 years or so, and at this point the rust was through the case hardening on the crown wheel and pinion, the bearings weren't much better either. So its a new crown wheel and pinion and bearings - another expense.

However after discussions with Dave I decided that I had better inspect the Ferguson front diff too and inspect for rust, better to find it now, than run the car and cause damage. I had originally decided not to strip the FF components, because of spares issues, lack of manuals etc etc, so this was a challenging decision.

Anyway, got the "sump" off the FF front diff, and apart from old oil no rust and no wear to be seen

Some interesting numbers on the back of the crown wheel - don't know what they mean, there's also a small tag that I found confirming the diff ratio as 3.45 to 1.

The next job was to assemble the quill shaft assembly so that I could bolt up the rear suspension

and now with the trailing arms etc

The next job was to remove the sump on the auto gearbox - I needed to do this to replace the kick down cable connection which can be seen bottom right at the bottom of the valve block

Although the fluid had been clear when I drained it the contants of the sump were horrible ! - another gunky mess, with I suspect some water in it, so its a good job this came apart - very little metal on the captive magnet though.

And finally I changed the input shaft oil seal

The bell housing is now going off to be bead blasted and cleaned.

I started work on removing the rust from the front drive shaft

Its better, but I think it will require a few applications of rust remover before its fit for painting.

Finally I had an invite from the body shop to inspect the car and the paint progress

Its looking very good, and I think will have a really good finish when complete, I am very happy with the work so far. They have put a great deal of effort into "blocking" the panels so there are no ripples visible when painted.

640 hours now worked - 9 today

Front Driveshafts

2010-09-22T22:22:00.000+01:00

Seems funny to be saying that about a big saloon, but I went to Dave Macs to collect the driveshafts yesterday. Sadly they hadn't done anything with them, as none of the splines or fittings were compatable with any modern products. They did say that they could make new ones, but I would need new front hubs too etc etc .... the cost was going to be huge so they hadn't done anything, but they did say that they had looked at the existing parts and there didn't appear to be any appreciable wear, so why didn't I rebuild them?

So I left there with 4 CV boot kits.

This is a front joint stripped, the grease was more like toffee than grease, but I stripped and cleaned them all

Ever wondered how they come apart - or go back together, the ball bearings are easy, just tilt the cage and pop them out, but there is a trick to the cages, which have 2 larger holes than the rest - these are more oval than round, and you use them to firstly rotate the cage into the joint, aligning them with the "lumps" between the ball bearing groves

Then once these are in place use the large holes to rotate the centre splined section in place

Now beware at this point, before inserting ball bearings make sure that both the cage and the centre section are the right way up - they usually need rotating through 180 degrees to ensure that the beveled spline input (which compresses the ring on the end of the shaft on insertion) is facing outwards - get it wrong and you won't get the shaft in !

Anyway 3 more joints later here are the complete shafts - I still have to fit the CV boot clips, clean the grease off, and give the metal a quick coat of paint.

I also completed the pedal box tonight, complete with NOS pedal rubber

And I painted the diff parts that I got back from blasting - except the rear alloy cover plate

When the paint is dry these will need the oil seal "bearing" areas polishing, but much better than the old rusty bits.

Time spent now 631 hours - 4 tonight
Money spent £13515 - £40 on blasting, paint and CV boots

Differential Troubles

2010-09-18T18:48:00.000+01:00

Firstly today I completed the front suspension rebuild, so its all ready to go on the car when the drive shafts are fitted.

and struts fitted to uprights

I then intended to clean the diff, and replace the oil seals and quill shaft bearing. The oil seals needed attention because they would be the original leather type, and there was evidence of leaks.

So I removed the quill shaft and housing,

and then I drained the oil - this had water in it, and it was dirty. So rear cover off for inspection, the orange flecks you can see in the next picture are rust, but not on the components, they are just floating in the oil

there are some marks on the crown wheel teeth in certain places, which is where I think some of the rust has come from

I am not sure what to do about this at present, I can either wash the diff out with paraffin, or have it stripped and cleaned by a specialist - these units need a special case spreader tool to extract the crown wheel and planet gears. I shall have to mull this over.

Anyway time to remove the stub axle flanges - these feel a little notchy in situ.

On inspection there is dirt in the bearings, so little wonder they don't feel good. With these out the diff turns smoothly though.

The manual says remove the nut inside the flange and pull the flange off - it actually took about 7 tons pressure in a bench press to remove both of these and extract the bearing and seal.

I now have this pile of parts, some of which can go for blasting and cleaning before rebuild

I am not going to finish the diff today after all, so I then decided to remove the gerbox mounting, which needs blasting and powder coating - it was a swine to remove from the box, because one of the bolts was almost inaccessible due to the transfer box.

After the disappointment of the diff I thought I hade better look at the auto box fluid - I need to remove the sump anyway to replace the kickdown cable. This was Ok, nice red and nearly clear, so I think the box will be alright, at least there was no water in it.

thats it for today folks.

total hours worked now 627 - 8 today

Been to see my baby today

2010-09-17T19:10:00.000+01:00

Well I actually went to the paint shop, good progress, the underside and wheel arches are fully prepared and ready for painting, with the seams sealed etc and so is the engine bay, and the interior, and this is how it looks

External preparation is next...................

I cannot wait to see the end result.

More suspension work

2010-09-07T18:25:00.000+01:00

I made some more slow progress on the suspension today.

Firstly got the new tyres fitted to the rims

Then I got the rear brakes fitted to the trailing arms, complete with Nissan driveshaft and back plate, and the polybushes - the drums will go on later, I have just given them a coat of black engine high temperature enamel

A large part of the day was spent measuring bolts to ensure that I order the correct lengths, the extent of the problem can be seen here in the hub / caliper mounting, using a standard Stag caliper bolt there's a fair bit protruding, which will definitely foul the brake disk.

Then it was onto the front subframe, I pressed the ball joints into the track control arms, and fitted these to the frame, together with the steering rack. When this went to be reconditioned they set the mountings level - however for some reason thats not what this car needs, as you can see from the picture the passengerside mounting is far from horizontal.

To rotate it to this point was simple, it was just a question of undoing the locking ring, just visible in the housing, then rotate the housing and relock the ring. As you can see these bolts are also the wrong length, but were just some I had to hand to enable me to trial fit the rack.

Here's the other side.

thats it for today,

hours worked now 619, 7 today, 5 from last time which I hadn't added to the total.

Costs now £13475 - £236 on 5 Toyo tyres

Jigsaw Puzzle

2010-09-05T21:26:00.000+01:00

Well, with the estate away in the body shop for painting, it was time to sort the suspension parts out for assembly, so after cleaning the garage floor again I dragged them out of the cellar and laid them out

As you can see there's quite a bit of stuff, in slightly more detail, polished alloys, with stainless steel wheel nuts.

The mobile tyre fitter is coming round on tuesday to fit some Toyo 175 80 14s to these

front suspension parts

struts and steering rack

rear suspension

modified nissan drive shafts and brake drums, and rear dampers

Thats going to keep me busy for a while.

One issue that I do have is with the modified front suspension - standard Triumph nuts and bolts won't fit, they are often too long or too short, so I need to take the original bolts that I have saved to a fastener specialist to get replacements, in particular this involves the rack mouts to the subframe, and all the bolts on the steering uprights.

Decision Time

2010-08-31T19:44:00.000+01:00

I have been contemplating the paining of the estate and the rest of the body preparation for some time now. The what, how and whys of Do it myself or farm it out. Pros and Cons, cheaper to be done by me, downside lack of time, issues with toxic paint etc etc.

I have been to see a few paint shops too, had lots of conversations with various people and considered all my options.

Well the decision is made now, and its off to the paint shop this weekend, to be painted in 2 pack. They are going to finish off the lead loading (as its taking me an age, and I am very busy at work at present), finish the preparation, and paint it. Finish date is mid October.

I'll be a regular visitor to watch progress and take pictures.

So while its away, I am going to clean out the garage (again) and get all the mechanical bits assembled, at the very least its got to come home on its wheels, not resting on pallets after its painted.

Work of Art !

2010-08-26T19:31:00.000+01:00

Got these back from Andrew Turner today. These were one solid lump of corrosion when I sent them off a few weeks ago.

FFFantastic, its not even worth buying a reconditioning kit and doing it yourself, when they come back this good, and as an added benefit all the brackets and bits and pieces are replated too. VERY VERY pleased.

Money spent now £13239 - £235 on reconditioned carbs

Estate Bits and Pieces

2010-08-25T21:24:00.000+01:00

After finishing work on time I managed to put a few hours in on the estate tonight.

Firstly, powder coating removal from bearing surfaces on the front hubs and bearing carriers. After much scraping and rubbing down with emery paper I got all the powder coat removed from where it shouldn't be and ended up with this

all ready for the bearings and brake disks.

I also unpacked a couple of recent ebay purchases, a set of Quinton Hazel handbrake cables - too boring to photo, and a NOS Stag distributor, complete with original points and rotor arm. It has the American emissions vacuum unit which gives advance and retard, so that needs swapping over, but otherwise a great ebay find.

I have also ordered some more body lead sticks for the weekend.

So hours worked now 607 - 3 tonight
Money spent now £13004, £75 distributor, £35 powder coating, £10 brake cables

Not much to show for 7 hours work

2010-08-21T18:05:00.000+01:00

A short blog report today, I started work on leadloading the bonnet bulge, and getting the scoop to fit.

After an entire day, I had managed to remove the ecoat, tin the metal, lead load all the joints round the bulge, and form the basic scoop housing. I cannot believe how long this took, I have still to load the bulge with lead, and file this back, at this rate of progress it will take 2 or 3 days.

The main issue is that as it is all flat panels, when you heat them to tin or lead them, they distort, and need hammering back into shape, so progress is slow. It does however explain why there was so much lead on the original bonnet, as all the distorted areas also need lead.

So here is how it looks now

The areas to the front and side of the scoop are where the bonnet needed loading due to distortion, and you cannot knock it back here, as the bonnet strengthening bars are behind the skin in this area.

I have made a decision on painting the estate, this is going to be done by a professional in a spray booth. He is coming to inspect the car later this week, and subject to agreeing terms, it should be painted in late September, early October. Its going to be in 2 pack.

Hours worked now 604 - 7 today

Estate Progress

2010-08-20T20:18:00.000+01:00

I collected the latest lot of powder coating today, which is just about the last remaining items that need doing.

It comprises the brake reservoir, fuel pump brackets, some parts from behind the dash, and the wheel hubs and front stub axles.

I had asked the powder coaters to protect the bearing surfaces, but sadly they didn't so I've a bit of extra work to do, which involves scraping the powder coat off the bearing surfaces, so that the wheel races fit correctly.

I have also been after another bonnet scoop because mine is corroded, Colin from the 200 register has been good enough to send me one. It has the same part number in the die casting as mine, but when compared its different! The one I have is lower and slightly reshaped -

The one from the estate is in front, its lower by about 5mm - I think its simply been flattened as it does not have the curve or bow of the original, and its also longer, but I think this is a part of the flattening process, but looking from the sides there has also been some subtle grinding done to it, probably to improve the fit.

Now that I know this it will have to go for replating, but I can only do that when I have done the bonnet lead loading, so thats the job for tomorrow.

Lead loading and yet more lead loading

2010-08-15T16:47:00.000+01:00

Although the lead loading works well, it is very time consuming, and the blog is likely to get a little repetative for a while.

With the time it takes I wonder how carbodies managed to turn the estate shells out so quickly. I can only presume that practise makes the whole proceedure a great deal quicker, probably the blokes who did the shells were more adept at just putting the correct depth of lead on, and smoothing it better to the finished contours with the tallow coated paddles, I seem to put too little or too much on, both of which wastes time, if there is too little in parts, you only find out when you file it down, and then have to carefully melt more on without wrecking the rest of the work - too much lead means it takes longer to file down.

Even so I suspect that I am going to have to put a few hours in on the shell each evening, if I am to meet a commitment that I have for the car in November.

So todays work, the seams on the rear pillars, firstly showing all the stages,

clean the metal off

then apply flux and tin / solder solution

then apply heat to tin the metal

then melt the lead on

then using heat and a tallow covered paddle smooth the lead out

then file to shape

here's the other rear pillar done too

and finally the dents in the roof

That little lot took 7 hours, how long the rear hatch / valence area, and the 2 rear window frames will take is anybodies guess at present, I suspect a long time.

The blob of grey paint marks a small dent where rectification is needed - I have been marking body defects as I notice them in grey primer, so I don't miss them later.

So hours worked now 597 - 7 hours today

At last some time to work on the estate

2010-08-14T17:31:00.000+01:00

I have not been ignoring the estate, but I have had so much work this summer it has had to wait. However I have been progressing with parts and getting bits and pieces organised.

Firstly the heater, went and collected this and the machined down water valve

So thats finished and put away for now.

The front drive shafts have also gone off to Dave Mac, and I am expecting arrival of the front brake disks any day now.

Got some work done on the shell today, the first jobs were to repair the holes found during the dipping and ecoating,

firstly the small hole in the FF driveshaft tunnel mods.

Then the front bulkhead hole

I repaired this by holding a piece of copper behind it, and then simply filling the hole with weld (the weld doesn't stick to the copper), which in this case was a flattened piece of water pipe

Then onto the plenum, into which I cut a hole

and welded up the inner holes, which were through to the passenger compartment, and then fitted a patch to the front

The following hole was not rust, but left by FF when they modified the chassis rails

I thought that I had better fill it though in case the MOT man complains

Finally there was the damage / rusty area in one rear floor pan near a grommet hole

Patch inserted, hole redrilled and primered

Nothing else for it now but to start the lead loading, commenced with the passenger side windscreen pillar

I was please with that result, it still wants a little shaping, but its all so shiny, its hard to see, so it can have some guide coat later before final finishing. The paper at the bottom of the pillar is to catch the lead shavings from the file, which can then be recycled, by melting back into a bar.

Total hours worked now 590 - 7 hours today

Estate Progress

2010-07-11T13:01:00.000+01:00

I haven't done much on the estate recently, two reasons really, pressure of work and working weekends, and also not wanting to "damage" the pristine shell.

I have had a kind of mental block, as the body looks so nice after the ecoating, that I cannot bring myself to spoil its appearance with the leadloading and other remedial work. I had some visitors yesterday to look at the estate, and Colin summed it up by saying that I had got the "Holly Grail," effectively a brand new pristine shell that everyone hopes they will find in a barn somewhere to rebuild back into a car.

In another excuse to put the work off I have been having discussions with other CT members who have said that I should be using filler instead of lead because its better and more modern and easier to work. I have kept arguing for using lead, but I was allowing myself to be persuaded.

Anyway I thought I would try my hand at leadloading again, to see if I had the old skills, in the hope that would give me confidence to lead load the shell rather than cheat and use plastic filler.

The real difficult trick with lead is to be able to put it on a vertical surface to some depth, and then smooth it off, so I dug out an old sheet of 1mm steel and set to work, tinning it first and then applying lead, so with the steel sheet vertical I tinned it and applied lead

The area of lead is about an 6cm diameter circle. I did forget to take the flame away from the work as I dabbed the lead stick on - hence the "burn mark" above the lead top right, but I did manage to get a decent thick covering over the area about 5mm deep.

This was then reheated and smoothed with a tallow coated wood spreader to give this

and then finally filed flat with a "rasp" type flat file

That'll do nicely, the vertical work is the hardest to do, and I had forgotten just how nice it is to work and shape after application, as its not rock hard like filler.

So I am convinced and happy now, it will be lead loading - forget plastic filler, and I will be starting on the shell, probably not for 2 weeks or so due to work, but August should see a completed flat body shell all loaded and ready for painting.

I am sending a few more parts off for powder coating this week, including the large vacuum reservoir, which as Colin confirmed is not from a PI, does anyone know what it is off ?

I had some news this week from the people who are remaking the brake disks for me, the first attempt had failed, because the large piece of cast irom had turned out to have internal defects when machined down. However they have now obtained more material, which has been xrayed to check for defects, prior to machining, and they are confident I should have the disks within 2 weeks

On the Spit and on its side.

2010-06-26T16:02:00.000+01:00

I managed to get it off the trailer today and back onto the spit, as I did want a look underneath.

I found 2 spots at the top of the rear wheel arches where the paint and rust was removed but no ecoat!

It looks like a large bubble of air was trapped in the arches - at least if they are airtight they are water proof.

The underside is good too, little areas of evidence of light rust removal, but most really good, again more pictures

FF transmission tunnel

Passengerside floorpan

Transmission tunnel

Driver's side floorpan

Rear Spring pan

Rear end of transmission tunnel

Rear passengerside floorpan

FF mods in more detail

Its Come Home

2010-06-25T18:00:00.000+01:00

Got a telephone call late this morning, please come and collect your car.

So I was off hot foot to SPL.

Got it home, its NOT full of holes, after a careful inspection 5 new ones only, and small, as follows:-

1 in the plenum
1 in the bulkhead
1 in the transmission tunnel mods
1 in an inner wing
1 where one of the rear floor bungs was located.

Theres a little bit of heat distortion in some small areas, which will easily knock out, and a small ding in the passengerside roof above the rear door.

They were right about the lead loading, there's no lead left on the car at all now

Its all one colour now too, which helps, even though its a satin black "rat" effect

But otherwise a fantastic result, I am chuffed to bits. You can see now how other parts of the car were modified by FF as the process has removed all the crud and muck

So pictures now - lots of them too - sorry but I am really happy with the result.

Front inner wheel arch

Drivers footwell

Driver's rear seat area

Boot floor showing hammer marks from Carbodies where they indented for the spare wheel - its Ok and I worried this might disappear in the process. The surface rust does leave a non shiny finish in the ecoat, but thats because the metal has been converted to rust and then removed

Inner wheel arch

FF transmission tunnel modifications, again despite surface rust its all whole

Little ding in the roof that it now has - sadly

Driverside inner wheel arch, the small hole in the chassis leg is where FF didn't finish the plating, when they modified it - its not a rust hole.

Plenum chamber / bulhead above

Passenger side front wheel arch - note the hammered modification for the extra vacuum chamber

Passenger side chassis rail mods

Didn't know this weld was here on the windscreen pillar, factory done, then hammered in and presumably leadloaded

Same here on the rear pillar

View inside the plenum, showing the chemicals and ecoat get everywhere

passengerside inner wheel arch

Rear spring mounts

Underside of bonnet, hadn't noticed the marks in the bulge before!

Transmission tunnel

Even had the rear subframe arms done, ready for black chassis paint.

And thats all for now folks, I won't be able to do much on this for a few weeks due to work commitments, but it will be the small repairs and leadloading next.

And how much did it all cost......... £1860, so the spend to date is now £12884

You learn something every day

2010-06-24T18:01:00.001+01:00

Despite the estate being away, and me working weekends I have managed to get a few hours on the car today.

I decided to assemble the front struts as I had all the parts. Now I have always wondered why the strut gaiters on my Stag were never closed at the top, or fitted to anything, I had looked in the manuals but could never see the part required, just an item marked "washer", well when I stripped the estate I found 2 of these at the top of the struts

I now understand that this is the "washer" with the remains of the gaiter, which the previous owner must have cut away when the gaiter failed, to save an mot fail on a split gaiter (I must get 2 of these for the Stag too) and this is how they fit

So on to strut assembly, here's a finished one, with an uncompressed spring by it, showing how much "preload" the springs have in this configuration

and both finished with roller top mounts and the aluminium spacer

Now onto the vertical links, these are very rusty and the dust shield paper thin

So I removed the dust shield and started to wire brush the links, which clearly reveal the assembly method, a machined billet of steel, with the hub bearing carrier welded in, and various mounting lugs welded on

I cannot get all the rust off these, particularly on the reverse (due to inaccessability) so I intend to send them for blasting, when they are back and painted, I will fit the bearings and hubs and assemble to the struts.

The dust shields are another matter so I decided to fabricate these from steel sheet, here's one in progress

Its got the lip formed, but I still need to cut the centre out, and trim the lip, however thats all I have time for today.

I have also obtained a few NOS parts from ebay in the past weeks, firstly a genuine AE Stag oil pump, now thats a rare beast today (and it shouldn't weep oil like my County one on the Stag from the oil pressure relief valve assembly) and a Stanpart black transmission cover carpet, still in the original wrapping, but it will need some modifications so it will fit round the transmission tunnel mods, but its another rare item.

583 hours now worked - 4 today.

Heater Assembly

2010-06-12T18:26:00.000+01:00

Just because the estate is away at Surface Treatments doesn't mean that I won't be working on various items when time allows.

Today was the turn of the heater assembly, which as you may remember was somewhat rusty, but I now had the parts back from the powder coaters.

I started by stripping the motor, to oil the bearings and check the brushes

All was Ok, except the commutator was somewhat dirty, so I cleaned this up with wire wool and reassembled.

Brush assembly fitted

Then it was time to put the motor in the housing and mount the dropper resistor that gives the slow speed.

Then assemble the motor into the blower assembly

You will note the new screws, I used a total of 52 screws in the whole heater assembly !

Fan assembly mounted into the main unit

Sealing compound fitted to edges of heater chamber

Side panels on and matrix inserted.

I greased all the cables and other moving parts, including the lever assemblies and the springs and ball bearings that give the detent steps.

And finished, flaps cables, vents etc all fitted and working from the front control levers

Looks much better, and its all done except for a snag, the heater valve doesn't fit the matrix, I hope the matrix suppliers can resolve this without me having to replace the matrix, I shall not be happy !

Total hours worked 579 - 5 hours on the heater.

Goodbye Estate

2010-06-06T15:43:00.000+01:00

After finishing off the trailer, 3 of us then spent the morning loading the estate onto the trailer. Not easy without road wheels.

In the end we winched it up on the spit, having covered the ramps with steel sheet so that the rollers didn't get stuck (they are a little narrower and smaller diameter than road wheels!)

With the spit on, the car was too long for the trailer, so it was a question of lowering the car onto axle stands, removing the spit, and then dragging the car forward on some pallets until it all sat on the trailer

and finally all ready to go, I will not see this back again for 3 or 4 weeks, so time to tidy up the garage again I think.

T'was an absolute bugger to do. I am going to find a better way to get it off the trailer when it comes home.

I didn't feel like doing much after that, but I did reassemble the auto gear selector from the parts that had come back from the powder coater, there's grease in it too, so it won't be rusting up again. I had to clean the powder coat of the shaft bearing surfaces before assembly, but it works beautifuly now.

The cleco fasterners are holding it together as I need to get some solid rivets.

next item for assembly will be the heater, but thats for another day.

hours worked 574 - 6 hours today

Moderns and Customers get in the way of work

2010-06-05T18:18:00.000+01:00

I had intended to do a fair bit of work today, but......

Firstly, after 195000 miles the camshaft position sensor gives out on my Zafira, so no spark at the plugs, that left me stranded for a couple of hours, but I still managed to collect the powder coating, which is all the heater parts and the autogear selector. Still boxed here, but if I get time to assemble them it should look pretty good

Then 2 customer call outs, the second one 30 minutes after I get home from the first one, so that was most of my day gone.

I wanted to work on my new car trailer, so it is in good nick to move the estate on Monday. It isn't too bad mechanically as it managed to travel 140 miles home with me from south wales, but the electrics were shot, and I wanted to regrease the wheel bearings.

I am pleased with it, it has ramps, overrun brakes and a tipping bed, and is plated at 2000kg, didn't sell for much on ebay, probably because of its location. The winch must be a later replacement, it looks Victorian, but its very well made. So I managed to do most of the electrics tonight, I will do the wheel bearings and fabricate a number plate holder tomorrow.

I just need to figure out a way of getting the estate onto it, but thats a problem for tomorrow.

So a busy day tomorrow, complete the trailer, load the estate on to it, and get the gearbox back in the Stag, and rain is forcast!

Hours worked 568 - 2 today
Money £11024 - £100 on powder coating.

Instruments

2010-06-02T17:47:00.002+01:00

My reconditioned instruments arrived back today, about a 10 day turn around and they are in fantastic condition

All credit to Alan Davis at the gauge shop, www.thegaugeshop.com, good price compared to others and come complete with O rings, a very nice touch! Compare them to the originals on my blog a few weeks ago.

I am off to fetch my car trailer tomorrow, then I have to devise a way of getting a wheel - less car onto it.

Now I haven't updated my costs recently, mainly because I don't want to own up to the costs of the Leda dampers but here we go...... (and don't tell the wife!)

Original spend to date £9256
Leda Dampers £1400
Gauges £203
oxy-acetalyne £65

Total £10924

Bits and Bobs

2010-05-29T16:46:00.000+01:00

I really cannot find anything left to do on the body shell prior to its trip to surface treatments, so I started work on some other items. I suppose I could have pulled the date of the body dipping forward, but at least I haven't had to panic with a lot of work left to complete, and this way I can now do some of the jobs on other items that will need doing sooner or later.

Firstly the gear selector, like everything on the car this is rusted solid, so I drilled out the rivets

and then stripped it into its constituent parts, using plus gas (and a hammer) to release the cross shaft, and this is what it looks like in pieces

The arm on the cross shaft is quite bent, I presume this was an intentional mod by Ferguson Formula as its far too stout a piece of metal to have happened accidentally. I shall send the sheet metal items off for power coating, and then I will rebuild it.

The handbrake horse shoe is in a poor state too

That needed the angle grinder to dismantle, and these parts too are off to the powder coater.

I have gone and purchased a car trailer to move the shell on. I have worked out that with the number of trips that the shell needs it was easier to buy a trailer and perhaps sell it on later rather than hire one in.
So far as I can forsee the number of trips the shell needs is as follows:-
2 to and from surface treatments
2 to and from the exhaust company
2 to and from the painters (unless I do this myself)
2 to and from the MOT station (maybe more if it fails on anything)
2 to and from the DVLA when I reapply for the registration.

Thats at least 10 trips and with the hire costs and travel to get and return a hire trailer this should work out well particularly as I can sell the trailer afterwards.

It did mean that I have had to attend to the trailer socket on my company vehicle, as when I towed one of my masts yesterday I found the left hand indicators were not working at the socket, so that was another estate related job today, replace the socket.

Hours worked now 566 - 5 hours today.

Exhausting Work

2010-05-26T17:35:00.000+01:00

Took a few hours off work today to catch up on the estate, and offered up the Stag exhaust system to the rear underfloor.

Once I was happy with the position I welded the mounts in place

And with the car the right way up, this is how it looks

As I was doing this I ran out of welding wire and found that my spare reel was .8mm, and not .6mm which fits the welding tips I have, so a quick trip to Machine Mart, where I also bought a new gas pipe for the welder as I had carefully melted a small hole in it, which resulted in rapid gas use, so 1 hour of today was spent stripping and fixing my mig welder.

Hours worked now 561 - 4 hours today

Shiney Shiney

2010-05-25T18:03:00.000+01:00

2 parcels of shiney new parts arrived at work for me today,

firstly the final rear exhaust mount and a Stag rear silencer assembly, so I can now weld the mounts in place

And, the Leda front struts and rear dampers, I haven't unpacked them all, but look at the quality of this kit, its almost a shame to put them on the car ! - the adjusters are beautifully designed, no chance of these rusting up and being unuseable, and also easily adjustable on the car too (unlike Koni).

A large packet of very large Leda Decals came in the box too, but I don't think I will adorn the car with those!

Got some Gas

2010-05-23T08:58:00.000+01:00

Despite working this weekend, I managed to get my oxy-acetalyene bottles from BOC this weekend, so bonnet bulge removal happened, I simply heated the braze and pushed a stainless steel metal scraper through the join while the braze was molten.

The thick white line on the left of the underside of the bulge, is just seam filler that had been used to close the gap between the bulge and the bonnet, it was about 10mm thick.

Now another nervous moment, cutting a hole in a perfectly good bonnet

And bulge now transplanted

It'll look better lead loaded and painted!

I also started to do various other items of brazing on the car, such as this joint on the front wing / scuttle panel, which I know the factory did like this

And I have started to braze the front wing seams - not original, but it stops the paint cracking here, and I will grind a small grove in it later

Thats all for now.

Total hours worked now 557 - 4 hours yesturday

Mike's Triumph Troubles

All those little jobs that I had left until now

I don't mind the cold, its the snow that gets me

Tubular Bends

Exhausted

Radiator and Interior

Its all a rush now

Heads and Headlinings

Got a head or two

Not the job that I had hoped to finish today

How to get it up and stay up !

Under the Roof

Headlamps and battery

Heads and other bits and pieces

Electrickery and other bits

I am sure my estate is female !

Two Steps Forward, and one Backwards

Jobs to do, and some completed!

No time to Loose

Over a beer with Fatboyslim

Money and the interior

Chuffed to Bits

Shiny Shiny

Depressing News

Assessor's Paint Report

Lack of Progress

Power Steering Pump and PWDA

Trim Items

Nothing beats the fumes from Contact Adhesive!

Today I have been mostly doing woodwork

More work ready for Stoneleigh

I prefer to call it cleaning

Doors and Glass.

Dash it

Got the Wood

Bits and Pieces

Steering Column and Doors

Better Progress Today.

What a Faff about

2 Jobs Completed Today

Wiring

Dynamat Day

Brakes and other bits

Its been a long time.

Fitting Brightwork

Keeping up the Momentum

Tuesday's work on the estate

Thought it had gone too smoothly yesterday............

Its Painted and its Home

No car yet, so engine and transmission today

FF Transfer Box and Viscous Coupling

Sometimes its better to live in blissful ignorance!

Will it be ready in time?

Paintshop Progress

Front hubs and disks

Differential Done

Estate Progress

Paintshop and some other snags

New Bits

Paint Shop and other jobs

Do want the Good News or the Bad News?

Front Driveshafts

Differential Troubles

Been to see my baby today

More suspension work

Jigsaw Puzzle

Decision Time

Work of Art !

Estate Bits and Pieces

Not much to show for 7 hours work

Estate Progress

Lead loading and yet more lead loading

At last some time to work on the estate

Estate Progress

On the Spit and on its side.

Its Come Home

You learn something every day

Heater Assembly

Goodbye Estate

Moderns and Customers get in the way of work