I know this has been posted on the CT forum, but thanks to Nick Jones it does go on to other things
At least this year we got past the halfway mark.
Nearly in Norfolk after the first 2 Counties of the second half, miss-fire, then no power, then stopped engine.
It had fuel in the carb float chambers, so check the points gap, bumped the car to try and turn the rotor, wouldn't move, assumed it wasn't in gear, tried again, no joy !
I found I could turn the rotor arm by hand.
Telephoned for recovery - we'll be two hours before we can get to you - fair enough at 3am Sunday morning
Pulled the distributor, drive gear and thrust washer left in block - the roll pin between the drive and the shaft had sheared off.
Bear in mind I have just spent a fair few pounds on getting the distributor reconditioned I was not happy, plus there's now 2 small pieces of roll pin floating around in the sump.
I cut up our clip board clip to fashion a drift, and removed the rest of the roll pin from the shaft - I still had the failed distributor from the RBRR in the boot, so I drifted the roll pin out of this, to find it was also broken, however the broken bits from the two distributors were about the length of a new pin, so I inserted these in the new distributor and drive, (they were a little loose) and secured them with some mig welding wire through the middle.
Put the distributor back, re-timed it and it fired up and ran OK.
About 4am and the recovery truck turned up.
Decided at this point to take the recovery option, as I wasn't sure why the roll pin had failed, and my repair was a bit of a bodge.
Bad pin, poorly fitted ??
I think its getting replaced with a drilled and tapped hole and a high tensile cap bolt secured with lock tight
Nearly in Norfolk after the first 2 Counties of the second half, miss-fire, then no power, then stopped engine.
It had fuel in the carb float chambers, so check the points gap, bumped the car to try and turn the rotor, wouldn't move, assumed it wasn't in gear, tried again, no joy !
I found I could turn the rotor arm by hand.
Telephoned for recovery - we'll be two hours before we can get to you - fair enough at 3am Sunday morning
Pulled the distributor, drive gear and thrust washer left in block - the roll pin between the drive and the shaft had sheared off.
Bear in mind I have just spent a fair few pounds on getting the distributor reconditioned I was not happy, plus there's now 2 small pieces of roll pin floating around in the sump.
I cut up our clip board clip to fashion a drift, and removed the rest of the roll pin from the shaft - I still had the failed distributor from the RBRR in the boot, so I drifted the roll pin out of this, to find it was also broken, however the broken bits from the two distributors were about the length of a new pin, so I inserted these in the new distributor and drive, (they were a little loose) and secured them with some mig welding wire through the middle.
Put the distributor back, re-timed it and it fired up and ran OK.
About 4am and the recovery truck turned up.
Decided at this point to take the recovery option, as I wasn't sure why the roll pin had failed, and my repair was a bit of a bodge.
Bad pin, poorly fitted ??
I think its getting replaced with a drilled and tapped hole and a high tensile cap bolt secured with lock tight
This was my bodge fix on the night showing the welding wire holding the 2 halves of the roll pin in place
Needless to say I have now fitted a new roll pin (and kept one for spare).
Nick said that it was a bizarre fault and I should EFI it to get rid of the distributor - now I have most of the bits to convert the Sprint, but simply hadn't got round to it, so without wasting more time I started getting the parts out of storage, and started seeing what needed to be done.
I did a trial fit of the Jenvey bodies on the webber manifold (fuel rail and injectors fitted too)
This revealed the first issue, the Jenvey bodies only need an O ring to seal against the manifold,
and don't need the anti vibration mounts that the manifold came with
however without the vibration mounts the studs supplied are too long, so I need some short UNC studs. I also need to get a boss welded onto the thermostat housing on the manifold for the Megasquirt temperature sensor - I have now ordered an ally boss, and the studs have been replaced with UNC bolts for now. Still the throttle bodies do look good !
Next issue was to find a home for the Microsquirt controller and relays, behind the glove box looked ideal for me, especially as there were 2 holes ready made for mounting, and just the right size for rivnuts
And here's the ally plate made up and fitted
next job was to mount the various components to the plate
There's the Microsquirt, a combined relay and fuse box, and the innovate wideband sensor controller
and wired up tested and working - I needed to calibrate the sensor, which needs doing in free airspace, not later when mounted in an exhaust
and now fitted to the car
The glove box still fits, and I can still get to the fuses, relays and programming port from the parcel shelf.
I got this wired up to battery, engine ground and ignition sense, and all worked OK.
Next item was the coil pack and edis module which are now mounted
and wired with the exception of the crank sensor, I am moving that from the position I had originally intended for it, so the timing marks will be more visible - I also must get some loom tape for the wires. Next weekend I hope to get the car running on edis (as by default that will run the engine at 10 deg BTDC - limp mode), need to make up plug leads too.
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