and struts fitted to uprights
I then intended to clean the diff, and replace the oil seals and quill shaft bearing. The oil seals needed attention because they would be the original leather type, and there was evidence of leaks.
So I removed the quill shaft and housing,
and then I drained the oil - this had water in it, and it was dirty. So rear cover off for inspection, the orange flecks you can see in the next picture are rust, but not on the components, they are just floating in the oil
there are some marks on the crown wheel teeth in certain places, which is where I think some of the rust has come from
I am not sure what to do about this at present, I can either wash the diff out with paraffin, or have it stripped and cleaned by a specialist - these units need a special case spreader tool to extract the crown wheel and planet gears. I shall have to mull this over.
Anyway time to remove the stub axle flanges - these feel a little notchy in situ.
On inspection there is dirt in the bearings, so little wonder they don't feel good. With these out the diff turns smoothly though.
The manual says remove the nut inside the flange and pull the flange off - it actually took about 7 tons pressure in a bench press to remove both of these and extract the bearing and seal.
I now have this pile of parts, some of which can go for blasting and cleaning before rebuild
I am not going to finish the diff today after all, so I then decided to remove the gerbox mounting, which needs blasting and powder coating - it was a swine to remove from the box, because one of the bolts was almost inaccessible due to the transfer box.
After the disappointment of the diff I thought I hade better look at the auto box fluid - I need to remove the sump anyway to replace the kickdown cable. This was Ok, nice red and nearly clear, so I think the box will be alright, at least there was no water in it.
thats it for today folks.
total hours worked now 627 - 8 today
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