Monday, 29 August 2016

Comfy seats

I started by making some rails for the seats to sit upon, as the MGTF seats have much wide spaced runners than the original Triumph ones.



The runners had crush tubes inserted where the bolts go through them


I then welded a set of bars at the spacing of the seat runners and ended up with this


The seats now bolt through their runners to the bars running front to back in the car.

Here's the finished result

 
Lots of fore and aft movement when required, and the seats will fully recline, which may help the passenger when sleep is required on the RBRR.                                                                                 

Sunday, 28 August 2016

EFI saved a breakdown at the roadside

But more on that later, let the story unfold just as I found out yesterday...

Saturday was the day, to cure the oil leak from the front of the sump, and it was a job that I wasn't looking forward to, so with the engine supported

 
I undid the radiator hoses, and engine mounts, and then lifted the engine another few inches, until I had full access to the sump bolts. The rear 2 into the alloy crankshaft seal housing were missing - threads stripped, but the rest came out easily enough, and the sump came loose, but I couldn't remove it until I undid the bolts holding the oil pickup to the engine. The sump needed rotating through 90 degrees and then tilting out from under the cross member.

Not too happy with what I found in the sump though


I have given this engine regular oil changes, so where this is from I don't know.

But with this much crap in the sump it did provoke an inspection of the oil pump


fairly scored, and beyond reuse, luckily I had a spare new one, so that went on the engine.

I am fairly confident, that the metal particles stopped at the filter, as I had also changed the oil filter on a regular basis, and used good quality ones - I suppose when a big end fails on the RBRR I'll know why !

So as they say reverse the process and reassemble - I have some concerns about the missing rear sump bolts causing a leak, but I did put a smear of silicon gasket goo on the rear of the sump  gasket - just in case.

All went back together well, apart from the usual fight with the engine mounting bolts, these NEVER seem to line up easily.

After filling with oil and water, it was time to remove the distributor, as I needed to fit the oil pump drive and I wanted to rotate the oil pump with a drill to pump oil round, and fill the filter - I had already primed the new pump prior to fitment.

This is what I found - dissy drive gear doll pin broken again


As the dissy isn't needed by the EFI the engine still runs despite this, and the oil pump is still driven.

I am not sure why its failed again, I stripped the distributor and there's no witness marks inside showing anything catching, the shaft rotates easily, etc etc.

Its twice this distributor has done this, so I am now going to fit an old one that I have and see if this fails too.

Finally I collected my leather MGTF seats - and although I need to make up seat mounts for them, they fit nicely and are really comfy


Sunday, 21 August 2016

Getting ready for the RBRR

As always there's outstanding jobs to do on the car, and having worked through the last 4 weekends its now time to attend to some of the jobs.

The main item to attend to was to replace the radiator and hoses, the PO had bodged the radiator fittings, and the only way to remove it had been to undo the radiator to shroud mounts. The bolts for this go into the core, so naturally 2 of the fittings had started to weep.

I had purchase a new aluminium radiator and some silicone hoses



So once the old radiator was out, I started to remove the old shroud bolts to the body - 2 came out - well the captive nut and bolt together, one I had to cut off, and one I couldn't remove, and cutting the bolt head off wasn't a solution, as the captive nut was in a blind box section

I found out the issue - UNC bolts had been fitted into UNF captive nuts. The two that came away with the nuts was simple, as I could get at both sides, new UNF nuts and bolts will suffice.

The remaining remnants of one bolt had lots of thread, as the bolt hadn't been tightened flush, so I filled the screw thread flat and could now fit a UNC nut on the threads, the remaining bolt and fixing was left for now, as I could tilt the shroud to enable easy fitment of the radiator.





However while doing this I notice a problem with the offside engine mount




This again had been replaced by the PO with an after market replacement, and although the photo doesn't show it, there was very little rubber still attached, luckily I had a NOS item, so this was replaced. The nearside mount is fine, so I left this, it gets less load anyway due to the extra steadying mount from the exhaust manifold to the chassis rail.

I then removed my not needed mechanical fuel pump and fitted a blanking plate to the hole - something less to go wrong. The plate was made from a Ford one off a crossflow, slightly cut down to fit the hole - the bolt holes were at the same centres.



That done I replaced the radiator and all the hoses, the bolts from the shroud into the radiator had ptfe tape wrapped round the threads to provide a good seal and hopefully prevent them corroding into place






So now to fix the none working fuel gauge and look for that elusive engine oil leak.

The fuel gauge was simple, just a connector off at the fuel tank



I have now degreased the engine, so once its dried off I shall run it and see if I can identify the location of the leak

The oil leak is from the front of the sump, I know I damaged the sump gasket when I replaced the timing chain and tensioner on the morning of the last RBRR, so its off with the sump next weekend. It can be done with the engine in situ, but its going to be a dirty job with oil dripping on me ...

Something to be looked forward to !

Still there's no more water leaks and the engine runs cooler too, especially at tickover, water temp stays below 90 degrees, so that's an improvement.

So once the sump gasket is done I shall drive it every day too and from work, that should get a good 1000 miles on it before the RBRR, and hopefully prove everything is good.

I am looking to fit some MGF seats too for a little more comfort, and a larger battery now that's located in the boot, there plenty of room for a larger one

Saturday, 16 July 2016

Rolling Road Day

It was time to take the Sprint for a Rolling Road setup of the Microsquirt.

I thought that I had set it up quite well using the autotune - I hadn't !

The ignition map which I had copied from the Sprint Distributor settings was pretty close, but needed more advance at mid range rpm




and the fuel map was still too rich, but ended up like this




We didn't do a before and after run, but the end result was 137bhp and 131 ftlb at the flywheel (yes corrected I know, but I am happy with this. The factory were managing 127 bhp

 

Interesting when you took at the torque curve, it clearly shows where the cam starts to "work" at 2300 rpm, and torque steadily increases to 5200, which is why a Sprint is so nice to drive, as you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

This is a decent result considering I used standard unleaded at 95 octane ( in their day they wanted 5 star 98-100 octane) AND its a tired engine with 79000 miles on it. Also the cam timing is off, as when I had the head skimmed I didn't have a vernier cam pulley, and a mistimed cam does affect the Sprint's power output significantly.

I can now decide on a cam for the new engine that I am building - to keep the tractability I think a mild cam would be best, probably giving power at about 2500, as the increase in capacity of the new engine will pull back the point at which the cam starts to work.

I do wonder how little power the engine had before I started this work, as the car is significantly faster now - where do all the horses go ?

Anyway I can completely recommend Chris at efi-parts.co.uk - he's based in Runcorn, and works on most ECU's Omex, Emerald, Microsquirt  etc etc - if you want a rolling road session give him a call - reasonably priced too ! I am very pleased with the result

Sunday, 12 June 2016

EFI jobs and wheel bearings

I had a few small tidy up items to finish on the EFI conversion, mainly the air box which currently has the lid held on with PVC tape.



I had a number of thoughts to secure it, either clips or some threaded bars either side of the flanges, but in the end I opted for industrial velcro strips fitted like this



with a finished result of this.

Much better.

Its a real flying machine now - the EFI has liberated a lot of horse power, I am going to book a rolling road session for it now, I'd be interested to see what power it has got, and to check my tuning results.

Wheel bearings, I have had continual issues with wheel bearing wear - and if the bearings weren't Timken, purchased from a reputable source, I would have thought that they were Chinese copies. Anyway I decided to fit new bearings, but after some research found this fully synthetic wheel grease (slightly expensive at £50 a tub !) which is supposed to significantly reduce bearing wear - which I still cannot understand as I have never had an issue with wheel bearings in the past provided a reputable supplier of OEM parts was used.



So after a little work, new front wheel bearings are now fitted.

Jobs left for the RBRR,now just replacement of the front seats with some MGTF leather ones I think, and lots of driving ! - off to Lincoln next Saturday for the TR International / CT National day

Monday, 30 May 2016

Tuning the fuel map

Domestic duties over I finally got a chance to take the Sprint for a drive today and get on with letting auto-tune correct the fuel map.

The first run out gave me this, I was still having issues with it being so rich that it bogged down at WOT, but after this run I then manually reduced the fuel table figures of cells that hadn't been auto-tuned and were adjacent to "tuned cells" where there was a large fueling jump.



This was a lot better and my second run out produced this - still some red cells with large disparities to adjacent ones, but much better and it is now hard to make it bog down



While its getting better to drive - and there's certainly more power there than in its previous carburettor equipped mode, it is getting difficult to explore the outer reaches of the fuel map without risk to my license ! I can see a rolling road session being booked soon.

Was the EFI conversion worth it? - you bet, it starts better, hot or cold, and has far more get up and go - I don't know about the fuel economy yet, but that's got to be better

Saturday, 21 May 2016

Airbox finished

Today was spent tidying up the wiring and fixing cable ties to any loose wires, and replacing the dash.

I need to build a little amplifier for the Microsquirt Tacho drive, as although I have a Smiths RVC type tacho, the output is insufficient to drive it, - that's a little project to be done at work.

I then got on with finishing the air box and filter, I had purchased this K&N cone type filter and fittings, so it was time to fit it.





Filter in place - should get lots of cold air here, with the input just behind the grill. This is why I relocated the battery.




I then needed to fit an input to the airbox, I had intended to fit this between cylinders 2 and 3 but realised if I did this that I wouldn't be able to get my hand down to the dipstick, so I had to move it along a little, here's the input fibre glassed in place, I also glassed in the IAT bung



And now all fitted



with its lid in place.



What else to do but drive the car and try and get autotune to correct the fueling, because of heavy traffic I could only get about one third of the fuel cells corrected, and it was certainly running very rich, too much accelerator (and hence extra enrichment) and the car bogged down, and the AFR went too rich and off the scale, but its progress, I managed about 30 miles in it today, but I really need to take it for a good run with no cars about to finish the other cells !

The only other job is to either replace the lift pump or at least mount it on rubber bobbins as its a little noisy !

Where am I?