This was the easiest rear suspension removal I have ever done. All nuts and bolts easily accessible, and no dirt falling in your eyes.
The bolts on the drive shafts were seized so I cut them off, but the rest still showed signs of lubrication from assembly by Triumph - look at the middle set of bolts in the next picture, these are from the trailing arm bushes, came straight out - what joy.
The pile of removed parts, and while I think of it, I will document the shims here, so I can replace the same number on rebuild. There were 3 fitted to the driver's side outer trailing arm mount and 4 to the passenger side.
The diff has very little backlash, and has a good feel to the bearings on the drive shafts, but the propshaft flange / quillshaft has a "notchy" feel, so a strip down will be called for to inspect, and certainly to replace the oil seal, as the quillshaft seal is leaking.
I then started to complete the welding on the floor pans, but got called back to work, so thats all for now.
Next time underside welding, and I hope the rebuilt servo as that is now ready for collection.
Hours worked 372 - 6 hours assembling spit and rotating car, 4 hours removing rear suspension.
The bolts on the drive shafts were seized so I cut them off, but the rest still showed signs of lubrication from assembly by Triumph - look at the middle set of bolts in the next picture, these are from the trailing arm bushes, came straight out - what joy.
The pile of removed parts, and while I think of it, I will document the shims here, so I can replace the same number on rebuild. There were 3 fitted to the driver's side outer trailing arm mount and 4 to the passenger side.
I then wired brushed the underside, it really does appear to be surface rust only. Here is the modified transmission tunnel showing the relocated chassis leg, and the cut outs for the drive shaft and transfer box.
rear spring mount driverside - no holes and nothing you can poke a screwdriver through.
Rear spring mount and diff mounting pin driverside, again surface rust, and I know from when I removed the boot floor that the diff mount box section is good, despite the apparent surface rust.
Passenger rear floor pan, you can still see lots of white paint, again the rust just looks bad.
I was thinking of having the underside blasted, to check its condition, using soda so there is no panel damage, but the quotes that I am getting are crazy money - about 25% of the cost of the surface treatment process, so I am rethinking this strategy. Someone on the TR Forum made a DIY soda blaster, so I am going to investigate this.
Parts below are going for powder coating, although I think I will send the box sections with the car to surface treatments, and then paint then with POR15, as this will protect the cavities, which powder coating won't achieve.
The diff has very little backlash, and has a good feel to the bearings on the drive shafts, but the propshaft flange / quillshaft has a "notchy" feel, so a strip down will be called for to inspect, and certainly to replace the oil seal, as the quillshaft seal is leaking.
I then started to complete the welding on the floor pans, but got called back to work, so thats all for now.
Next time underside welding, and I hope the rebuilt servo as that is now ready for collection.
Hours worked 372 - 6 hours assembling spit and rotating car, 4 hours removing rear suspension.
No comments:
Post a Comment